Showing posts with label Boston. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Boston. Show all posts

Monday, November 26, 2012

The Back Deck, Downtown Crossing, Boston

The Downtown Crossing area of Boston has really come along way in the last few years. Once a place deserted at night, now comes alive as hosts of new restaurants and bars open in the area. One such place though is straying from the norm of the gastro pub and run of the mill taverns and is offering Bostonians the magic of Summer all year long. The Back Deck is adorned with paintings and is decorated in a way to make you feel like the warm, light air is always around despite those frigid temps that are on their way. I dined there on a night where spirits were high among the diners and it wasn't hard to envision the merriment of a back yard BBQ.


We decided to enjoy our summer throwback by ordering several of their smaller dishes and sharing- so we ordered their turkey burger, to which we added Swiss cheese and it was served with a choice of fries, potato salad or slaw (in typical backyard BBQ fashion)- we opted for the fries. We also settled on their Sausage and Mashed, billed as andouille sausage grilled over charcoal and served with mashed potatoes and gumbo greens. Finally we also ordered their Beef Kabob - served with a tomato-caper chutney, cornbread and a green salad.

The beef kabob was delicious- cooked to order, smokey cubes of grilled meat were tender and flavorful. Paired with the acidic and salty chutney, I felt as though I was at a party hosted by a friend- one who served well thought out, well planned foods to please their guests.

The andouille sausage was also very tasty- slightly spicy with the same wonderful char flavor I was looking for. A bite of this fatty (in a good way) meat, with a heaping forkful of the creamy mashed potatoes and I knew Id hit a good combination. Potatoes are such a decadent and delicious way to cool spice- makes me want to always heat heaping mounds of buttery potatoes whenI have anything spicy. The salad served with it was light and refreshing- exactly what was wanted as a palate cleanser.

Next up was the turkey burger and here was a the miss of the evening. It goes without saying that turkey meat doesn't have as much fat in it as beef does and therefore can be drier if not handled correctly. Unfortunately those steps were missed, and the result was an extremely dry patty. The potato bun it was served on was nice, it had nice flavor, it was a good size for the burger itself, the dish just lost itself on its star. I did not end up spending any extraneous bites on this one.

We ended our meal with the dessert that couldn't be ignored- the Back Deck's S'more. Touting homemade graham crackers, and cranberry marshmallows we couldn't resist. The graham crackers had a wonderful rustic look to them, enforcing their homemade premise, and were full of rich spicy flavor. The cranberry marshmallow nicely hovered the line of sweet and tart, and was oozing forth from the graham crackers with the gooeyness of a good roast over a fire. My disappointment here lay in their decision to pair a classic Hershey square with this. The waxy, almost fake tasting chocolate distracted from the flavors of the other ingredients and poisoned them with its cheapness. A good piece of dark, rich chocolate would have been the piece to make this dessert worth returning for.

Overall, I enjoyed my time at the Back Deck. The frivolity of the atmosphere combined with their dedication to charcoal grilling will make them stand out as a spot to head to as the snow swirls through the narrow alleyways of Downtown Crossing. There were, of course, some misses, but as the grill falls into its routine more and more Im sure those can be ironed out.

Friday, June 8, 2012

Pinkberry Launches Brand New Greek Yogurt Line with Free Treats for YOU!

As the days have been getting warmer and warmer- there have been a lot of discussions about the best frozen treats around these parts.  However for those of you who don't always crave the chill, resident favorite Pinkberry is launching a brand new line of dishes featuring their own Greek Yogurt. 

These items are made with fresh (read not frozen) Greek style yogurt and range the gamut of sweet and savory dishes, breakfast style and some suited for later in the day.  To celebrate this brand new venture- Pinkberry is hosting a launch party tomorrow, June 9th, from 8 am to noon at their Harvard Square, Prudential, Newbury Street, Hingham, South Shore Plaza and Wellesley locations. 

What will these parties feature?  One completely FREE snack size Greek Yogurt item! 

There will be 6 items to choose from- their complete line of new products including their Strawberry which features a base of Greek yogurt topped with mangoes, strawberries, strawberry puree, toasted almonds and coconut, and their Cucumber which styles cucumbers, yellow and red bell pepper, sea salt, honey and chili powder all over that rich and creamy Greek yogurt.

The full line up of enticing treats can be found here, this is sure to be an awesome addition to Pinkberry's already impressive line up.  

Monday, June 4, 2012

Mooo, Beacon Hill, Boston

There is a certain quiet elegance that encases downtown Boston. Unlike the hustle and bustle of New York, or the laid back beauty of LA, Boston is subtle, sophisticated and yet, commanding. It is a town of strong ideals, historic culture, overwhelming pride and a pretty awesome sense of humor.  It is only logical that in the very heart of the city, a restaurant would exist that would celebrate these very ideals. 

Mooo sits in the historic XV Beacon hotel, originally built in 1903 and situated at the very crest of Beacon Hill, next door to the grandeur of the current State House.  Mooo is touted as a contemporary take on the classic steakhouse, but I believe it is so much more. Its dining room oozes of the same understated elegance of the city itself, and its private function room, a gorgeous wine cellar is steeped in the history that this city is known for.  With wine bottles salvaged from ship wrecks, and long lost vintages, it is worth a trip for the curious eye...

The ambiance of Mooo is anything but a classic steakhouse- here the dark undertones have been elevated into lighter tones, and a generally airy feel.  The often overwhelming chandeliers have been muted with large shades, making them feel cozier.  The artwork is the real statement here.  Up close and personal images of friendly cows decorate the walls, adding just a bit of scandal to this steak house.  

The staff is extremely knowledgeable of their menu, inclusive of wine lists, and after welcoming me in, balanced the perfect line of social and leaving me to investigate their flavors.

I began my meal with their Tuna Tartar.  A perfectly formed disc of large chunks of tuna, lightly tossed with chives, and then placed in a moat of citrus ginger dressing and topped with earthy micro greens was set in front of me.  Very little salt was used in this dish and that was a wonderful decision by the chef.  The tuna was a pure flavor, and when mixed with a little chive or the ginger citrus dressing variations were formed, which kept the dish interesting.  The simplicity of this rendition made it one of the best I've had-it was difficult to put my fork down.

I always have difficulty choosing which steak I want to indulge in when I visit steakhouses, however the staff at Moo made my decision simple as I selected their Painted Hills New York Sirloin.  This was a 14 oz grass and grain fed steak from the Painted Hills, a collaborative ranch out of Wheeler County in Oregon.  I paired this with their Whipped Yukon Gold Potatoes and their B&B Mushrooms.

The B&B Mushrooms were button mushrooms sauteed and served in a brandy and butter sauce.  These were some of the plumpest, juiciest mushrooms I've had the pleasure of enjoying.  However, I did feel that the brandy had been applied with a bit of a light hand and it's punch of flavor wasn't felt in the side dish.  

The potatoes, on the other hand, had wonderful flavor with notes of butter and cream circulating throughout them, and perfect texture stemming from the whipping of real potatoes.  The flavor here was also pure, without the addition of too much salt, and with just a small smattering of chives on top to vary the flavor when desired.  

The steak, above all, was a piece of artwork.  Served with a bone marrow butter as a simple accompaniment, the flavor of the steak stood well on it's own. The beauty of the grass fed beef is the more delicate flavors that are found- the light hints of sun drenched grass and healthy grains.  Moo seasoned and cooked this steak beautifully, a perfect medium rare was found on the inside.  I found that the butter wasn't at all needed, though I did love its visual affect, served in a bone.  

Though I knew dessert would be overdoing it, I was talked into trying their Banana's Foster (they really had to twist my arm on that one).  An ample size boat filled with scoops of creamy vanilla ice cream with bruleed banana halves in between was set in front of me, and then, table side, the steaming hot sauce was poured over the top.  Rich scents of butter and sweet banana wafted immediately to my nose and as I dipped my spoon into a sphere of ice cream and caught some of the sauce- the flavors were bright and delicious.  I really enjoyed the bruleed bananas-their crisp top provided a lovely textural contrast to a traditional dessert.

Mooo was an absolute delight, and I must thank them for having me in to explore their menu.  Their dishes are put together with attention to details, and obvious pride in their ingredients.  They do not feel the need to add salt or seasoning where it isn't needed, but instead have faith that the ingredients they have chosen are of the highest quality.  Mooo is definitely doing steak right, and is a wonderful place to celebrate the beauty of Boston.         

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Turner FIsheries, Westin Copley, Boston

As the temperatures increase around these parts my infatuation with seafood begins to flow off the charts. I don't know what it is but summertime just seems made for all things that live within the ocean waters. Last week I had the chance to try out the menu at beloved Turner Fisheries in downtown Boston and I couldn't have been more excited.



See the great thing about Turners is not just that they select only the freshest, often organic and sustainable, seafood to serve to their patrons but they create masterpieces around it. Simple twists on age old classics, award winning clam chowder and creative new dishes makes the menu interesting and fresh. They also have some daily specials that are both taste bud and wallet friendly.


We kicked off our evening with the Atlantic Shelf -a generous tower of fresh shellfish including clams, mussels, scallops, oysters and mammoth shrimp. Served with a delightful helping of cocktail sauce enhanced with extra horseradish, the sweet, fresh, chilled shellfish was a delight.


The evening that we dined at Turners was damp and gray and as I perused the menu I was drawn to the warming dishes most of all. The table began to rave about the milk product free Smoked Tomato Bisque served with fried basil and I knew I had to order it. A big bowl of steaming tomato soup was set in front of me, artfully served with a single leaf of fried basil balanced on top. The scent that wafted to my nose-full of natural sweetness, hearty acidity and a hint of smoke made me reach for my spoon. The soup was delicious, full of rich notes of smoke balanced with the brightness created by the acidic fruit. The true wonder here was the creamy undertones that were present, comforting and delicious, that were created without the addition of cream. This is a lactose intolerant persons dream. I cleaned my bowl, despite my desire to resist.


Still craving the comfort of broths and soups I settled on Turner's New England Bouillabaisse for my entree. Another large bowl was set in front of me, chock full of perfectly cooked seafood. Table side a small pot of tomato based broth was poured over teheran top, and with a mashed potato swirled crostini decorating the side, my dinner was complete. The dish contained a wonderful mix of flakey white fish, plump shrimp, tender calamari and tasty mussels. Every piece was well cooked and full of fresh natural flavors. The broth was light, thin and yet bursting with flavor of tomato and herbs. This was a wonderful dish for those stormy summer nights, creating an ocean oasis away from the pounding rain.


Of course dessert was next to arrive, and are choices were well varied. The menu artfully ranged from decadent chocolate to refreshing chilled treats, and one that truly intrigued me-lemon puffs. Fresh pastry puffs filled with a lemon cream, this burst of citrus flavor screamed summer dessert to me. The sweet tart flavor of the lemon created the illusion of "light" and as each little treasure seemed small on its own, this was a dessert that one could easily pretend was part of that summer diet.


Turner's has become a go to for me. The staff is welcoming and knowledgable and management is constantly seeking ways to keep their offering fresh, interesting and current. This summer Turners has a host of offerings to maximize the diners value-I urge you to check them out!

• Bar Bites & Beverages

Monday - Friday, 5-7 pm
Turner’s is now serving a special bar bites and beverages menu on weekdays from 5-7 pm. Come relax in our lounge after work with your co-workers and friends and enjoy a menu of $5 appetizers, all of which are made with fresh, sustainable seafood and the finest ingredients. The special menu will also feature a rotating selection of beers, red and white wines and a specialty cocktail.


• Monday Night Sustainable Fish
Mondays, 5-10pm
A different sustainable fish entrée featured each Monday for only $20.00!


• Wednesday Lobster Night
Wednesdays, 5-10pm
2 Lb. Lobsters for $35.00 - while supplies last.


• Thursday Neighborhood Night
Thursdays, 5-10pm
50% off your entree if you live in our neighborhood. (Back Bay or South End)


• Dollar Oyster Friday
Fridays, 5-10pm (while supplies last)
An array of East Coast oysters for $1.00 apiece.

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Living Social Gourmet- A Dinner at Bistro du Midi, Boston

Oh LivingSocial...I fell in love with you long ago, what with your charming coupons and swoon inducing deals.  I fell hard when I found your listings of "escapes" wonderful locales luring me to their folds for fractions of what they would normally cost, but this was the week I realized that was true, everlasting love.  You see this was the week that I had the good fortune to test out your brand new feature- LivingSocial Gourmet.  


Similar to learning that your already great boyfriend is a guy who picks you up at 3 am from the airport, or makes you chicken soup when you're sick, LivingSocial Gourmet is going the distance bringing only the most unique dining experiences to the city of Boston.  LivingSocial is partnering up with some of the finest restaurants in Boston to offer exclusive dining experiences that are not offered otherwise.  That's right- LivingSocial Gourmet is your ticket into those new menu launches, tasting menus, and otherwise unobtainable restaurant events.  


As part of the kick off of this program here in Boston, I was invited to attend their inaugural event- a 5 course tasting menu with wine pairings at the esteemed Bistro du Midi, a relaxed French Bistro located with a fabulous view of Boston's Public Gardens.  


Bistro du Midi had elected to keep their offering small, and so a group of six of us culinary lovers were led to a small private section of the upstairs dining room, greeted by both the front of the house manager as well as their extremely accomplished Sommelier,  Todd Lipman.  Todd was our guide for the evening, explaining the course selections, as well as accompanying wine and cocktails.  As soon as we sat, our group together at the rustic feeling French Farmhouse table, we knew we were in for a treat.


Starting off the evening as our Amuse Bouce was a small serving of Bistro du Midi's saffron scented Bouillabaisse, accented with a single piece of seared Petit Loup de Mer and two small potatoes. This was paired with a gin based,  basil muddled, sparkling cocktail which was due to air on their menu the following day.  The Bouillabaisse was rich and creamy, well flavored from their use of lobster shells, Pernod and wine in the base, and showcased the seafood with subtle grace.  The ingredients balanced each other well, keeping the flavors in check lest they overpower the additions.  The cocktail was a hit around the table- strong scents of Pernod settled into the gin and basil as the it hit your tongue, and the gentle fizz created a refreshing finish, perfect for the rich Bouillabaisse.


As we moved on to our "Premier Plat", Todd once again made himself available to educate us on the course, as well as it's pairing with a 2010 l'Olivier de la Reze from Minervois.  It was a simple, clean white, dry but not overly so, a light wine which wonderfully complimented the intricate crudo dish laid before us.  Delicate Spanish Mackerel, mixed with blood orange juice,  and fennel, topped with watermelon radishes and micro greens and finally finished with a spicy pepper emulsion took my nomination for dish of the evening.  The mackerel, delicate and fleshy, scented with orange and sweet fennel was elevated by the peppery radish with the slightest hint of heat provided by the emulsion.  The dish had incredibly clean flavor, and the varying textures, from the silky crudo, to the slight crunch of the greens and finally the dense foam of the emulsion, created a different experience with each bite.  This was a dish made with expertise, a conscious nod to the flavors present, and in tune with the crisp wine pairing.


Our next course, a giant seared prawn laid atop shrimp and arugula stuffed calamari with a Blue Crab tomato ragout was a work of art.  The chef had gone so far as to add a single leaf of Arugula, perched on top of the prawn, as a palate refresher from the acidic ragout.  The prawn, well seared with quick caramelizing on a single side, was meaty and delicious bringing strong notes of  the ocean to my plate. The calamari was also well prepared, well cooked to avoid any chewy textures, however I felt that the filling was a bit lackluster.  I missed the strong presence of arugula, and the delicious flavor of shrimp and was sadly distracted by an overall feeling of dryness in the stuffing.  I was told later that a healthy dunking in the ragout solved the dryness concern.  The ragout, while on the subject, was delicious- strongly flavored with Blue Crab.  This dish was paired with the robust 2008 Domaine Fontsainte from Corbieres.  Acidic but full of berry flavors, this dry red wine stood well with with seafood, proving, once again, that red wines, even bold ones, can be married beautifully to seafood. 


Our next dish had several of us stealing glances almost asking permission to clean our plates with the highly impolite finger sweep rather than miss out on any drop of the heavenly sauce.  Prime Sirloin steak, cooked to a perfectly pink medium rare was sliced and served atop a gentle hill of mashed potatoes (pomme puree), enhanced by a drizzle of Sauce au Poivre, and finally accented with a salad of frisee and green beans.  That sauce, a combination of green peppercorns in brandy and a touch of cream...well- there wasn't a thing that could be said against it.  It was spicy creamy perfection.  It was paired with a 2008 Domaine Houchart Rouge, out of the Cotes de Provence.  This was a highly interesting wine made from remainder of the red grapes also used to make rose.  So where the rose is light, this was very dark, with deep flavors of berries that brought out those wonderful spicy notes from the sauce.  I found this wine, a mix of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon to be highly drinkable, as I do with most blended wines.


The finale was dessert- a hazelnut milk chocolate cake, topped with ganache, and served with salted caramel ice cream.  The table seriously considered ordering a vat of the ice cream, though I feel our sharing skills would have seriously been put to the test had we done so.  The salt in the ice cream was light, but noticeable enhancing the sweetness of the caramel.  The cake was my favorite part however.  Similar in flavor to a favorite Christmas time hazelnut and chocolate candy, the base layer had crunchy texture lent from cornflakes mixed into the chocolate. The ganache was silky and smooth, dotted with whole hazelnuts and spears of chocolate.  The cake itself was not overly sweet, and so when combined with the ice cream, a perfect level of decadent sweetness was achieved. This was paired with a 2009 Chateau Bel Air, Tradition from Sainte Croix du Mont, a golden wine made from Semillion grapes (one of my favorites).  The beauty of the Semillion is that while they are considered dessert wine grapes, they just aren't as sweet as some others.  Here, they complimented the dessert without bringing friction to the palate which so often results in an almost bitter by product.


I was truly honored to be a part of this evening.  Todd Lipman and Chef Robert Sisca put together a superb meal from amuse to dessert, and in turn hosted a perfect dinner party.  The experience truly felt unique, as I sat with my new found friends and we traded food stories from all over the globe, it was a night like no other.  LivingSocial Gourmet is truly offering a special service, bringing the food lover into a world sometimes seen as off limits.  It is a world I often have my nose pressed against the glass of, and I am so thankful to have been a part for this evening.  LivingSocial Gourmet can be found at http://livingsocial.com/gourmet -they are still in a bit of a launch process here in Boston, but sign up and watch the incredible opportunities filter into your in box.           

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Legal Seafoods, Liberty Wharf, Boston

The Seaport of Boston is, wait for it....BOOMING.  Of course this is no real surprise-the influx of fine dining, water relishing bars and pubs, and over night expansion of high rise apartment buildings has taken over stories all over town.  This area of Southie, the dock district, has quickly become the place to be seen.  Journalists, bloggers and Yelpers alike seem to be camping out in this area, waiting for the next restaurant to open.  I can't blame them honestly- during those summer months the views that so many of the restaurants in this area are capitalizing on are gorgeous, and with a nice summer breeze- the outdoor dining spaces are perfection.  What does this all mean?  Reservations are a must for any place in the neighborhood. 

With that tip under our belts, I had the opportunity to dine at the brand new Legal Harborside yesterday for lunch.  Now Legal's is a bit of an institution here in Boston.  Now a large chain, it began as just a small little fish counter, pulling in fresh catches along the Eastern seaboard and feeding the people of the city.  Over time it grew and expanded and has opened restaurants down the East Coast, offering classic New England seafood dishes, with a smattering of the less classic as well, at higher end prices.  Earlier this year they opened their Harborside location as their brand new flagship location, with three floors of dining possibilities.  The first floor is a more casual space, with an all day menu and picnic table-esque arrangements.  The second floor is their formal space, with price tags to boot, and the top floor is a roof deck serving a full bar, and light bites.  Our luncheon was held on the first floor, and we were seated at a table offering a gorgeous view of Boston Harbor. 

I began my meal with a mug of their clam chowder.  I gotta say, for some reason, Legal's Clam Chowder is where it's at.  There is no discern able "layering of flavors" that I usually look for, there is no bacon flavor, or any specific herbs, there is nothing in this clam chowder that makes it "special" or different, it just thick, rich, creamy and chock full of huge pieces of fresh clams. It is the chowder I grew up on, so my opinion may be skewed, but my mug was incredibly satisfying yesterday.

I selected the grilled swordfish salad for my entree.  The menu stated that this salad was comprised of chickpeas, tomatoes, fennel, basil, cucumber and a lemon vinaigrette-sounding rooted in Italian ingredients- I was thrilled to try this.  I anticipated a big leafy salad to be delivered to the table with all of those great ingredients dispersed throughout.  However my dish arrived without a single shred of lettuce and the rough salad sat next to a nicely sized portion of grilled swordfish.  Large chunks of cucumber, quartered plumb tomatoes, and a smattering of chickpeas were tossed with shaved fennel, heavily dressed and then sprinkled with basil.  Conceptually, I loved this dish.  The salad had great textural contrasts between the crunchy cucumber and the unique chickpeas, and I loved the addition of the fresh basil to the mix.  Unfortunately however, the rest of the flavors fell flat.  The tomatoes were a bit lifeless, the dressing was missing any brightness, and even the fennel, normally so crisp and pungent was lackluster.  It was a salad I felt sorry for- each ingredient a shell of what it could be.  To be perfectly frank- I think the salad was made the day before and the ingredients lost their personalities.  A shame for sure.  

The swordfish, on the other hand, was well prepared, thick and meaty.  Prepared simply with salt and pepper the natural flavor of the dense fish was on display here.

As I have come to expect, albeit sadly, from Legal, I walked away disappointed.  Legal Seafood's appears to be resting on it's laurels, assuming that because they are Legal they are immune to a bad meal.

"Dear Legal's-I remember how great you once were- please recommit yourself to bringing back that level of quality."


Monday, August 22, 2011

El Centro, South End, Boston

You've heard me complain for ages about the lack of good, authentic, Mexican food in this town. I have ranted about the cheese covered abominations, the neon green guacamole, and the spice void offerings of our local "scene". Sure, there have been a few saving graces that I've noted, but nothing truly stand out. Today I am considering re-trying all of those "bright spots" as I have now, truly, had fantastic Mexican cuisine right here in Boston.


Tucked away on a corner of Shawmut Ave in the South End stands El Centro. It is unassuming, non chalant in it's presence, in fact you might miss it when walking past -I did. But don't let it's quiet exterior fool you-El Centro will welcome you with open arms, and dazzle your taste buds with every dish.


My journey began at El Centro with their "spiced Sangria" and their own guacamole. Our waiters explanation of the Sangria was right on-their red sangria, enhanced with spices and a few slices of Jalapeno had a bite to it when sipped, but the real heat would come from munching on the jalapenos. I loved this take on Sangria. The cinnamon-y beauty of the drink shown through, but was wonderfully offset by the additional spices. It was a creative way to give a unique twist on a classic libation.


The guacamole was similarly unique, and delicious. The standard avocados mashed to perfection with hints of citrus, but then just before serving a crumble of cheese sprinkled on top, and a drizzle of chili (Chorizo?) oil completed the offering. Both of these accompaniments were welcome additions. The cheese, salty and robust contrasted the creaminess of the avocado, and the chili oil started a fire that was immediately cooled. Every bite was different, and every bit woke up the taste buds.


We decided to split our meal, and then began with three tacos-the Al Pastor, the Fish, and the Barbacoa. It is more than worth noting, the team at El Centro makes their tortillas fresh, so a taco at El Centro is not your standard, run of the mill taco with its casing hinting at stale or processed.  These tortillas are fresh, and clean tasting.

Al Pastor, which usually refers to pork paired with spices and pineapple, is one of my go to options.  El Centro worth paired chopped pork, rich with spice and good heat with the sweet pineapple and a smooth guacamole. The pork was tender, and contained real spice which was a very welcome change to many other restaurants interpretation of spice.  The guacamole was cooling in the face of the heat, and together they made an addictive taco.  The sweet pineapple flavor was light, I personally would have enjoyed a bit more of that flavor for the complexity it would provide, however, over all this was a delicious taco.  

For my second helping I tried out their Fist Taco.  Under normal circumstances, I shy away from fish tacos.  I love the idea of them, but far too often, they contain heavily fried fish, which ruins the dish for me. We clarified ahead of time, and at El Centro, the fish is seasoned and baked, making for a much lighter, and in my opinion, flavorful dish.  It is served with a creamy cilantro sauce, and crisp shredded vegetables.  The fish did get a bit lost in its blanket of sauce, but the flavors were perfect.  The creamy sauce, with the mildly spicy fish, all complimented with the crunch of vegetables.  This was a fish taco I could have again and again.

My final bite was of the Barbacoa. Beer marinated beef, slow cooked and shredded.  The flavor here was delicate, but complex.  It was deep and rich, with perhaps just a hint of smoke?  I paired these bites with the house made hot sauce that was delivered to the table.  I can honestly say, for the first time in a restaurant, this hot sauce packed a serious punch, resulting in slight eye watering, and that weird, sick, desire to eat more of it.  Spice is a funny thing.

Finally, we moved into our next course, Camarones Al Chipotle  (shrimp in chipotle sauce).  This was highly recommended by our waiter and he did not lead us astray.  The shrimp were beyond "large", plump and perfectly cooked.  They were then set in a beautiful bath of a creamy chipotle sauce, and paired with rice, corn and cilantro. The chipotle sauce was perfection, to be honest, I could eaten it as a soup. Rich, spicy and decadent.  When paired with those delicate shrimp the sauce somehow complimented their sweet freshness, but did not overcome it.  The sweet corn was a perfect accompaniment, and the rice was a wonderful vehicle for sopping up the, um, extra sauce.

El Centro exceeded my expectations at every turn.  It's exterior may be quiet and unassuming, but inside is filled with warm, wonderful people, who are creating food full of rich, hearty flavors, true spice, and authentic pairings.  This is not your average "thrown beans in it and blanket it with melted cheese and call it a day" Mexican food.  This is food that truly celebrates the country, and El Centro plays the part of inviting each patron into their home to guide them through their kitchen.

Word to the wise, we arrived at 7:30 on a Friday evening, tables were available.  Within moments however every last table was full, and a small line was forming outside the door.  Reservations are not accepted- so get there early- this is food you want to make the time for.    

Monday, July 25, 2011

Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse, Liberty Wharf, Boston


Back in March I had the extreme pleasure of touring the still under construction space that would eventually hold Boston's first Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse. Del Frisco's is a national chain, specializing in premium steaks, chops, and seafood. Since the restaurant opened in April, Boston has been buzzing about it, and I have been itching to return. Last Thursday I attended a media dinner and I was finally able to sink my teeth into one of those fabulous steaks I had been hearing about.


The first thing to note about Del Frisco's are the views. Set on Liberty Wharf, the wall of windows incorporated into the structure offers stunning views of Boston Harbor, and the Bank of America Pavilion. The dining rooms, and some of the private dinning space maximizes this view which results in a wonderfully pleasing ambiance, different from many steakhouses which seem to capitalize on few windows and very dark woods.


We were treated to a nice sampling of their menu as our dinner, beginning
with their appetizers. Platters of chilled steamed shrimp dressed in three varieties of sauce (traditional cocktail, a mustard base cream, and an Italian marinade) we laid out in front of us accompanied with their crab cake, tuna tartar, and their beef carpaccio. The shrimp served were large and fresh, sweet with their own natural flavors, and perfect both for showcasing the sauces, and standing on their own. The cocktail, classic in it's base, had been heightened from a sometimes lackluster state to having a nice kick to it. It paired very well with the shrimp. The mustard based cream had been given a very healthy dose of white pepper, which slightly overwhelmed the nice acidity of the mustard making this sauce a little flat. The Italian marinade however was packed with bright flavors stemming from hearty use of fresh herbs, garlic and vinegar. This was, by far, my favorite of the shrimp variations.


The crab cake was unique in it's own right, large portions of lump crab, lightly tossed with seasonings and very few breadcrumbs, baked and piled high on top of a creole inspired mayo based sauce. The crab was succulent, the seasonings were spot on and the sauce had a good blend of both smoke and heat. This was a great crab cake really showcasing the meat and not the fillers.


The tuna tartar was one of the standout dishes I sampled at the opening party back in April. A great mix of fresh tuna, herbs and acid to cut the denseness of the tuna. Paired with crostini lightly drizzled with vinegar, this is a wonderful appetizer. This would actually be what I ordered if I were to return to Del Frisco's on my own. It's light freshness, mixed with the bright acid, is the perfect way to begin a decadent meal in my book.

My final taste of the appetizers unfortunately fell a little flat, the beef carpaccio. I am a huge fan of beef carpaccio and will order it wherever I go. Normally the rare beef is perfectly offset by pepper (either black, or incorporated through arugula), and salt which enhances what is a beautiful thins slice of meet. Unfortunately at Del Frisco's there wasn't enough of either of these two seasonings used, and the meat didn't feel as special as I knew it was.
With appetizers complete, we were served a salad course next, my selection being the Del's signature salad consisting of lettuce served with tomatoes, topped by an avocado goddess dressing and large thick slices of bacon. This salad was a delight. The creamy dressing offset the refreshing lettuce and the tangy tomatoes perfectly. The bacon was simply over the top. Clean and non greasy to the taste, the bacon had pure smoky flavors and a nice chew to it. I could wake up to a few slices of that ban every day happily!Finally it was steak time. I, in my extremely carnivorous ways, selected the bone in rib eye for two reasons-the marbling of fat I knew the cut would contain, and that trusty bone. Marbling of fat throughout a steak is a clear indicator of flavor. While it's cooking, the fat melts into the meat, and enhances the natural flavors. The bone, which I like to think of as the "epicenter of flavor" infuses sits natural flavors as it cooks. The combination is wonderful. I requested my steak to be cooked to medium rare, my usual choice. My steak was flavored perfectly. A simple crust of black pepper and salt, the first few bites were perfection. Towards the center of the steak I did find that the temperature dropped considerably and found a much more rare bite. However, I actually enjoy my steak rarer and happily relished it. We were treated to several side dishes for the evening: chateau potatoes, onion rings, steamed broccoli, and lobster macaroni and cheese. The potatoes, unfortunately, just didn't do it for me-mealy in texture and over salted, I quickly tasted and surpassed them. However, the steamed broccoli which I feared would be over cooked and flavorless was crunchy and well seasoned. The onion rings were completely delicious, large rings of onion, battered with an impossibly light and crunchy exterior, fried to perfection, maintained their integrity of onion and provided a true onion flavor in every bite. Perfection. The lobster Mac and cheese was also a treat, elbow noodles encased in cheese and topped with a buttery bread crumb topping-every bite yielded both melty cheese, and a delightful crunch. My serving didn't have as much lobster as I would have liked, but I think that was my own fault for urging our server to only give me small portions!Dessert gave us options as well, a banana bread pudding, a molten chocolate cake, cinnamon creme brûlée, lemon cake and fresh berries served with fresh whipped cream. I sampled each, a bite of the lemony and sturdy cake, a spoon of the creme brûlée, a bit of the cake, the pudding, however the standout for me, after such a decadent meal were the incredibly fresh berries. Large sweet blackberries, tender and tangy raspberries, and perfect slices of strawberries were the perfect end to the evening satisfying the gentle sweet tooth, but without going too over the top. The addition of fresh fruit to any menu makes me very happy and when the restaurant has found those perfect specimens of in season fruit-even better.

My experience at Del Frisco's was pleasurable. The wines served, two from their incredible selection, were well balanced. They nicely complimented the meal, and both were selections from our own West Coast, including one from the great state of Washington, which is my favorite wine region. Our servers were helpful, knowledgeable and funny, a rare combination I've found. The only clear misstep was in their timing, each course separated by lengthy pauses that made us grow a bit restless.  However, the tasty food, gorgeous views and friendly staff made up for that and overall, the meal was a success.  There is some tough competition in Boston for steak houses, Del Frisco's would get a second visit in my book.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Aragosta, Battery Wharf, Boston

Dining out, eating in restaurants, is a luxury.  It is the act of paying someone else to do a task that you could do yourself.  However, we dine out, we eat in restaurants for the experience, for the treat of it.  Sure, some of us tell ourselves it's to try something new, to check out a new cuisine, to find inspiration for our own cooking.  These may all be true, however beyond all of that, dining out should be like a little gift we can give ourselves.  This is the reason, I believe, that it is so upsetting when a restaurant fails to deliver.  When we are served something over cooked, or under cooked, something under salted or over, or something just off, well it rankles us.  We have committed to treating ourselves, but are finding dissatisfaction. Never good.  However, far worse than an overly salty bite, or perhaps a tough piece of meat, is a bad experience service wise.

Saturday evening my family and I headed out to celebrate both my birthday and my mothers.  We selected our restaurant of choice, the newly opened Aragosta on Battery Wharf, as the site of our festivities.  Aragosta opened just about two months ago in the Fairmont Hotel and has been receiving great reviews ever since. Their menu read like a delicious dream, and our anticipations were high.

We arrived on time for our reservation, and after a wait despite numerous empty tables, we were led to our table.  My first concern with dinner popped up just as we were sat and our server arrived to take our drink order.  Now, on this particular evening, in a cruel twist of birthday fate, I was under orders to not indulge in alcohol.  Anyone who knows me, probably knows that this was a curse worse than bad birthday cake for me, but I was trying to make the best of the situation.  I read through the drink menu, found one that sounded tasty, and asked if it was at all possible to make it non alcoholic.  Given that the selected drink was a mojito containing just rum with seltzer water, and fruit juices, I thought it might be relatively easy to convert to non alcoholic.  My request, as easy as I thought it was, was met tentatively, with our server stating that it was possible to do, but the bartender may choose to charge me for the drink as it is on the menu, alcoholic or not.  After some back and forth, and the word "silly" being tossed around quite a few times, I requested anything non alcoholic and that surely they could accommodate the request.  The bartender refused to not charge the full price, but, our server to the rescue, offered to absorb the cost of the drink.  I appreciated the offer, but I was left to wonder, what type of a restaurant was I in?  How could they not accommodate a non alcoholic request?

I got my answer throughout the course of the meal.  While our server continued to be helpful and kind, the service around her was an abomination.  The much anticipated drinks took about 20 minutes to be delivered.  They were delicious (alcoholic and otherwise) but were tinged with annoyance.  We ordered a couple of appetizers, the much acclaimed truffled lobster and white bean crostini, as well as a beat salad served with goat cheese, pine nuts and a pomegranate reduction.  The lobster crostini stole the show this round.  Thins of toasted baguette were topped with a creamy white bean puree, and then large pieces of lobster meat were loaded on, gently enhanced with truffle oil.  The decadence of the lobster and the truffle oil were beautifully balanced by the earthy beans, and the crunch of the toast was a perfect texture change.  The beet salad was also tasty, but nothing remarkable.  The duo of beets and goat cheese are time honored, and I had hoped that the pomegranate reduction would have been a unique twist but unfortunately it didn't create the flavor burst I was looking for.  All in all though it was a solid dish.

The time between our appetizer course and our entrees was the most unforgivable issue of the evening.  We waited between courses for approximately 45 minutes to an hour.  We spoke with our server who was understanding, and then I spoke with the manager, who found it amusing.  He laughingly told me that I should be using the time to build my excitement for the food I was about to be served.  Let me tell you- there are very few places where a wait to that length would be used to "build excitement" and not anger.  Those places would be run by world renowned Ferran Adria or Grant Achatz-those are restaurants where the presentation is art and the food is precise.  Aragosta, open for 2 months in a forgotten hotel on Battery Wharf?  You have not yet achieved that pinnacle of expertise and command of your craft.  I was not excited to wait for your creations.

The truly sad part about this was that my entree, seared tuna served over roasted fennel with marcona almonds and sweet raisins was delicious.  The combination of flavors and textures was spot on.  It is clear that the chef is beyond competent, and is, rather, brimming with creativity and strong execution.  His competency however, was completely overshadowed by the abhorrent mismanagement.

I spoke with the manager for a second time for the evening, this time him instigating the conversation I'm sure to receive a glowing report that the food was stupendous.  I agreed that it was delicious, but completely overshadowed by the poor experience of the long wait.  He seemed unphased.  

We were sent dessert to make up for the issues, an incredible chocolate cake, a light and beautiful olive oil cake and a plate of three types of gelato, each delicious.  The underlining notion, even here, was that the food is exemplary, but the service is lacking.  

Aragosta has a wonderful chef team.  Their food is precise.  It is imaginative, well contrived and artfully prepared.  However, if front of the house management is unable to clean up their systems and properly staff their dining room, I fear that the kitchen will forever be overshadowed and under appreciated.     

Friday, June 17, 2011

Sam's at Louis, Fan Pier, Boston

After some questionable weather patterns the past few weeks, we have had some gorgeous days recently.  One one such day Sam's At Louis, located on the Fan Pier in Fort Point Channel area, invited in a group of area bloggers and writers to enjoy their beautiful patio, and sample some of their delicious dishes.

Sam's at Louis opened last year, and I have to say- it has one of my favorite views in the city.  Located right on the water, their patio is elevated and looks at the Rowes Wharf and beyond to the financial district.  There is just no better spot to enjoy the beauty of Boston, short of being on a boat :-)

We were served light bites that evening, ranging from jalapeno crab Rangoon, to pistachio crusted lamb.  Favorite amount what a I tasted the evening was a ceviche halibut, topped with potato sticks and served in a lettuce leaf.  It was bright and refreshing, and had wonderful attention to detail with the texture of the potato. 







The staff at Sam's were wonderfully friendly and helpful, kindly putting up with round upon round of photos as they attempted to angle the plates in the bright rays of sunshine.  After enjoying my evening on their patio, I am certain I'll return for more summer enjoyment.

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Gennaro's 5 North Square, North End, Boston

I love the North End.  I love the cobbled streets. I love hearing the snippets of conversation in Italian as I weave through the tourists.  I love the restaurant managers who stand on the streets and try to entice the passerby into their restaurant.  It is a jovial atmosphere, one of indulgence and excitement.  It is quintessential, and it is wonderful.  However, with the seemingly hundreds of restaurants lining the streets, how do you choose which to go to?

The thing about the North End, is that though there are many many options to pick from for sustenance, there is little variation.  Sure, there are stand outs, Mare, for example does an incredible job on Italian style seafood, as does Neptune Oyster.  The Waterfront bar does a great job with pub grub and a great sports atmosphere, and Giacomo's delivers consistently good food, reasonable prices and great staff.  However, for the most part, the restaurants offer the same fare- red sauce Italian, dishes loaded with cheese and butter (not that I have a problem with either), and heaping portions of pasta.  Much of the imagination seems to be lost, and in it's place, a "feed the masses" approach has been taken on.  The dishes are stereotypical, they cater to the tourists who want "real Italian food", and therefore serve up Chicken Parmesan by the platter.  

Friday evening a friend suggested that we dine at Gennaro's 5 North Square Restaurant, located in my favorite part of the North End.  The North Square is a beautiful area, removed from the hub bub of Hanover Street, where the streets are cobbled, the buildings quaint, and the smell of flowers always seems to be in the air.  I transport back to Rome every time I walk through the area.  Having never dined at Gennaro's I was excited to check it out.  

I relished the North End that evening, skimming through Hanover street in my flats, maneuvering past the groups of Boston visitors, pausing at the corner by Gennaro's to change into heels- a practice I engage in far too often to protect against sprained ankles on those lovely streets I admire so much.  I was greeted by the restaurant manager outside the address, and he went through the obligatory sales pitch to have me dine there, as he found that my plans led me to his establishment already, he waved me to the bar to wait as my friend had not yet arrived.  Wait I did.  I waited to be greeted by the bar tender who appeared to be chatting with friends, I waited for the wine menu (still chatting), I waited for my order to be taken (a broken bottle the culprit this time), I waited for my glass of wine (more chatting), and then I waited to pay my bill (reason for this delay unknown).  Finally though, I had my wine, my bill was paid, and we were seated at our table, menus in front of us.  

We chose to start with an order of Calamari, the squid fried golden brown with slices of banana peppers in the mix.  The Calamari were served hot and crispy a fair amount of breading to make them really tasty, but not nearly enough of those fried, spicy banana peppers for my liking.  They were served with two dipping sauces, a standard Marinara, and, bunking tradition, a sweet chili pepper sauce.  That second sauce left me a bit perplexed.  Calamari is such a delicious vehicle for flavors, it seemed odd that this wholly Italian restaurant, un touched by "fusion" cuisine, would add in a sauce that tasted more Thai than anything.  It was ok, but nothing to write home about.  Additionally, the Marinara was served cold, which was a strange sensation with the hot Calamari.

I settled on the rolled stuffed eggplant as my main course, described as grilled eggplant, stuffed with ricotta cheese, roasted garlic and spinach, baked with marinara sauce and cheese, and then served with a side of pasta.  A few things, the side of pasta was actually placed below the rolls of eggplant, so it was impossible to ignore (as I had hoped to do) so I indulged in the nicely al dente spaghetti. The Eggplant itself appeared more fried (bread crumb coating) than it did grilled, however the texture was a welcome relief to the soft eggplant and creamy stuffing.  The ricotta, garlic and spinach came together nicely blending their rich, sweet and hearty flavors into a single note which was well accentuated with the acid of the tomato.  

Gennaro's definitely delivered in providing a typical North End experience.  Big portions of food, nicely settled into the red sauce variety, executed soundly.  There isn't anything overly exciting there, but there is that warm, comfortable feeling that you want if you were visit your Italian grandmother's kitchen.  The wait staff was pleasant, even remembering my friend from a previous visit.  They were efficient, and knowledgeable.  Gennaro's is a place that I can add to my list of "would return to, but not in a great hurry" spots in the North End.        

Monday, May 9, 2011

Prezza, North End, Boston

This year we decided to change things up for Mother's Day this year, and as opposed to having a somewhat rushed brunch on Sunday, my sister and I took my mom out for dinner on Saturday evening.  After much debate, we settled on Prezza, an Italian restaurant located on Fleet Street in the North End.

Prezza mimics the food of the Abruzzi region in Italy, where they depend heavily on polenta, fresh vegetables and pork dishes.  With spring upon us I was excited to see how they played with the bounty of spring vegetables that are out now. 

It was evident, as soon as we entered the restaurant, that they were extremely busy.  The bar was bustling, a large party had a private space cornered off in the head of the room, and our table was about 10 minutes behind.  Seated finally however, we were greeted by our pleasant waiter, and promptly served rustic Italian Bread and Focaccia with olive oil, and allowed us time to review our menus and make our choices.

We settled on two appetizers- my mom's favorite of stuffed squash blossoms and wood grilled octopus and and squid.

The star of this round were those stuffed squash blossoms.  These beautiful flowers had been fried to a beautiful light crisp, and then placed over soft, cheesy polenta accented with pancetta and tomatoes.  I loved the texture contrasts between the very crisp flower, with its very delicate flavor and natural sweetness, and the rich, creamy polenta.  The tomatoes added a perfect touch of acid to break up the richness, and the crisp pancetta lent smokey pockets as a final twist within the dish.  I had a hard time keeping my fork from drifting to this plate more than a few times.

The wood grilled octopus and squid were served with braised cannelloni beans enhanced with parsley.  The octopus and squid were both well cooked- both brought to a perfect textural state without being chewy- a difficult line to stay on the right side of.  Both were clean and fresh tasting, which paired beautifully with the dense beans and bright parsley. This was a beautiful dish, full of the flavors of Italy.

We finished our appetizers and I was excited to move on to the entrees, unfortunately we had a wait before they were brought to our table.  I am not sure what caused this exactly, other tables were served promptly, our neighbors sat while we enjoyed our appetizers and left mid way through our entree after having a complete meal.  Our entrees, for whatever reason were delayed at least a half an hour to forty minutes, with little to no explanation.  Unfortunately, while it doesn't reflect the food, an error like a long wait, to me, plays a big part in the over all feel of the meal. 

As the case may be, I was very excited when, after the long wait, our entrees were served.  My sister had decided on their pea raviolini prepared with Jonas ham, fresh spring peas and marscapone cheese, I settled on the grilled swordfish swerved with a chunky artichoke and potato "stew" and my mother chose the crispy pork chops served with vinegar peppers.  My sisters spring pea raviolini were delicious- silky marscapone sweetened with fresh peas and encased in well made pasta.  It was a wonderful dish, though I did think that the peas were a bit under cooked and therefore a bit toothsome.  My mothers pork was incredible.  A huge bone in chop, crusted in panko bread crumbs, moist and perfectly cooked.  The fattiness of the pork was wonderfully offset by the vinegar peppers which were perfectly tart and still had a bit of crunch to them.   I envied this dish.  My swordfish however was not as successful as the other two.  The fish itself was well cooked, but hadn't been seasoned before it was grilled.  I found that the stew, a puree of artichoke and potato with larger pieces kept whole for contrast, was also woefully under seasoned.  The unfortunate result was a rather bland dish, and one that I had difficulty eating due to its lack of flavor. 

We decided to split a dessert as well- and chose their fig turnover, paired with a port wine reduction and a pistachio glace.  The fig in the turnover was encased in a beautifully flaky crust, light and buttery all at once.  The filling was natural fig, sweet in and of itself.  By itself this was delicious, however when paired with the port wine reduction, the syrupy sweet over took the light crust and resulted in a too sweet combination.

Overall, Prezza is a beautiful restaurant, with friendly staff and some great ideas.  They are not a "typical" Italian restaurant, however it appears their execution is a bit lacking.  Under seasoning, long waits, these are things that can be easily fixed so it's a place that I would try again, however at this time, I'll try a few other places before returning.

Friday, April 29, 2011

Modern Pastry, North End, Boston

It was a few years ago that I realized the power of the pen.  Rankled by a terrible experience at the "beloved" Mike's Pastry, I used this blog as an outlet for my anger.  I took pen to paper, or in this case, fingers to key board and I vented.  I ranted, I raved, I inferred, I implied, I down right blamed.  I lofted my voice high and stood on my soap box to alert the masses to the terrible experience I had at Mike's.  Today, I stand by my decision, however my actions made it necessary for my family and I to find another supplier for our Italian Pastry obsession.  It didn't take long, or much hardship, to find that new place.  The same day as my mistreatment at Mike's, I had picked up some Sfogliatella, a favorite of my mother's, for breakfast.  They were fresh, crisp and ultimately better than Mike's, and so we began frequenting Modern for all of our Italian Pastry needs.

Easter, in our house, is celebrated not with chocolate bunnies or jelly beans.  Rather it is exalted with Italian delicacies.  This year, we made the annual trek to Modern and purchased the standard Sfogliatella, a Ricotta Pie, and a few of their Rum Soaked Baba's.

Sfogliatella are a unique beast.  Often confused with a Lobster Tail pastry, they couldn't be more different.  Their crust is flaky and crisp, a bite rewards you with a satisfying crunch giving way to a flavorful dough, deceivingly light in texture.  You might be able to kid yourself that it isn't such an indulgence, but be sure, those light, crisp layers of dough are separated with the almighty butter.  Any thoughts of lightness however are immediately done away with once you reach the filling inside this clam shell shaped crust. Inside exists a dense filling made of mix of yellow cream with semolina to thicken it, and flavored with citrus and cinnamon.  It is thick and rich but beautifully flavored making it rather addictive. 

Ricotta pie is my all time favorite.  Ricotta cheese is just such a wonderful, versatile and clean tasting cheese.  It's flavor is light enough to adapt to both savory and sweet uses, and Ricotta Pie is one of its shining moments.  Utterly simplistic in its form, Ricotta Pie is basically sweetened Ricotta Cheese, baked between two sheets of Pasta Frolla pastry dough- an incredibly straightforward dough of flour, butter, and egg yolks.  The result is a golden yellow crust, soft to the fork but with hints of citrus here at Modern, that gives way to the very dense filling.  Lets face it, as great as the crust is, we're here for the filling, and that ricotta is perfectly sweetened -just enough to feel dessert like, but not so much that beauty of the fresh ricotta is lost. This one goes down for the books.

Rum soaked Baba's (or as we call them- Baba Rum's) are one of my families traditions.  Light sponge cake is doused with rum, and filled with custard finally topped with a cherry.  The sponge cake maintains its almost grainy texture, though absorbs the bounty of the rum, and then with each bite, fades into the delicate custard.  

Modern is well known throughout Boston as making some of the freshest pastries possible.  As a testament, the Sfogliatella that we purchased had just come out of the oven, and were almost too hot to handle.  It just doesn't get much better than that.

Modern is no second place to any other bakery on Hanover Street.  Their pastries are of the highest quality, their stock of Italian specialty products is extensive and their staff patient and helpful.     

Monday, April 25, 2011

Bin 26 Enoteca, Beacon Hill, Boston

I love when a restaurant exceeds my expectations.  I used to dine at Bin 26 Enoteca on Charles Street in Boston's Beacon Hill neighborhood pretty frequently.  However, after having a few disappointing entrees, I started heading to other Italian eateries to satisfy my cravings.  This weekend though my sister was in town and chose Bin 26 as her birthday dinner location, I had some concerns, but was intrigued to return after a multi year hiatus. 

Bin 26 calls to mind the traditional Enoteca's of Italy.  Basic terms translates these Italian stores into wine purveyors where one is able to taste their wine before purchasing.  Bin 26 calls similar practices to mind by offering their menu as a series of small plates etc that can be shared as one tastes wines.  Their "by the glass" menu is large, and patrons can order different size glasses to allow them to taste just a little of a new wine, or indulge in a larger pour of a favorite. 

We opted, between the four of us, to share several plates of food, some from their smaller plate menu, and two entrees to really taste a wide sampling of the menu.  We selected the Saffron Risotto Balls, the Baked Eggplant Parmesan, the Mushroom and Fontina Cheese Bruschetta , and the Buffalo Mozzarella Wrapped in Crispy Speck as our small plates, and then chose the Scallops over Cannelloni Beans with an Arugula Lime Dressing, and the Beet Spaghetti served with Shrimp as the entrees to share.  

The Bin 26 Saffron Risotto Balls are also known as arancini- those delightful golf ball shaped orbs of creamy risotto, stuffed with cheese, and then deep fried to a golden crisp. Bin 26's boasted the presence of that sunny spice Saffron, and while the risotto did have a yellow tinge from it's use, I did not taste its sweetness in the balls.  I also, however, noted that overall these arancini were under seasoned pretty substantially, so I wondered if the saffron was just lost in the creaminess of the other ingredients.  Despite the under seasoning however, the risotto was well cooked, the internal cheese melted and gooey and the outside crisp from frying was perfection.  Those three elements are really what make arancini textural perfection!

I sampled the Sauteed Mushroom and Garlic  with Fontina Cheese Bruschetta next, and this quickly became my favorite dish of the night.  The mushrooms, tender and well seasoned paired with the perfectly melted mild Fontina.  Fontina is one of my favorite cheeses because of its soft texture and its salty yet creamy flavor.  Once melted it turns everything just a bit more decadent.  Paired with the mushrooms, the garlic and just a touch of parsley this was a wonderful take on bruschetta.

Next up was the Baked Eggplant Parmesan which, despite the beautifully melted mozzarella cheese smothering the top of the artful stack of well cooked eggplant, was again, slightly under seasoned.  The natural earthy flavor of the eggplant drowned against the acidic tomato sauce, rich cheese and fresh basil leaves.  

The Buffalo Mozzarella Cheese wrapped in Crispy Speck and served with grilled vegetables was the last of our small plates.  Though the Speck, a type of ham flavored with juniper berries, wasn't crisp, it did form a lovely shell around the slightly smoky cheese.  The flavors together, and then especially when combined with the charred vegetables, paired perfectly and made for a delicious snack.

Soon after our sharing plates were cleared the two entrees were brought to the table.  First up was the Beet Spaghetti whose name had fooled our whole table into thinking that the spaghetti, it self, would be beet instead of just spaghetti served with slivers of beets.  However, the dish, paired with fresh shrimp was tossed in a creamy sauce and was absolutely delicious.  The beets were naturally sweet, and broke up the monotony of the simple pasta.  The cream sauce a perfect pairing, and tied in the shrimp perfectly.  

I turned my attention to scallops next, served over a puree of Cannelloni beans, and topped with a mess of arugula.  The Scallops were well cooked, though over salted, but worked nicely when paired with the peppery arugula.  I didn't detect much lime flavor, but also didn't miss it while I enjoyed the dish.  I did enjoy the puree of Cannelloni beans very much.  There is something about a well executed bean puree that is just perfection to me.  Earthy tasting, but with creamy undertones, they satisfy the need for decadence without packing in unneeded calories.  

Despite a few seasoning mishaps, I was really pleased with the quality of the items that we sampled.  Each dish was well presented, each had unique touches and each contained fresh, clean ingredients. 

With execution like we saw this weekend, and an incredible wine list- I am happy to add Bin 26 back to my rotation of dining spots.      

Bin 26 Enoteca on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Lolita Cocina and Tequila Bar, Back Bay, Boston

Boston is known for many things, being ultra trendy is not one of them.  There are, of course, spots around town that are chic, that push the limits, however these are exceptions rather than rules.  I have heard the buzz about Lolita's Cocina and Tequila Bar since it opened a couple months back, but when I walked through their doors a few nights ago, I was completely unprepared for the scene that quickly unfolded before my eyes.  The hostess greeted us and took our name for a table, entering the information on the ultra hip iPad, and then alerted us to the two hour wait we'd endure.  Apparently, everyone knows that Lolita is the place to be seen...

When faced with a two hour wait at a restaurant, I think there is no better idea of what to do with the extra time then head to the bar and savor a cocktail or two.  Luckily, Lolita has two bars, and so my friends and I settled in to explore their cocktail menu, and enjoy the evening.  Now- I don't often spend much time on drinks, mainly because I am much more of a wine girl, but when you're in a Mexican style restaurant- can you really escape without one of their fun concoctions?  I think not.  I started my evening off with the Diablo -a mix of fruit juices, a Serrano pepper and tequila served in a spice rimmed glass.  While I didn't get too much heat from the drink itself, and most of the rim was pepper and not overly spicy, I enjoyed the idea behind this.  The fruit juices- blood orange, pineapple and strawberry were pleasantly sweet, and countered the pungent flavor of the tequila well.  Just after we moved on to our second drinks of the evening, our beeper rang and we were seated in just about an hour and a half.  With good company- that time flew by.

Lolita's definitely goes for the wow factor with their red tinged room and lounge atmosphere, right down to the amuse bouche served at the table.  Just after we were seated our waitress arrived carrying a dry ice smoking bowl of frozen grapefruit that she doused in tequila before checking our drinks and offering water.  A fun, liquor filled starter seemed like the right way to start off the dining portion of the evening to me.  I loved the combination here- the icy cold fruit, sweet tart by its nature paired with the unmistakable flavor of tequila- it was a very unique treat.  Several moments later, after it was thoroughly enjoyed and the smoke had died down, the remains were whisked away and a basket of warm tortilla chips were placed in front of us with a red salsa, smokey with chipotle peppers, a mild queso, and a salsa verde- chunky and acidic with just a touch of heat.  Then, just as we began to dig into the chips and salsa, our waitress returned with a bottle of Habenero Mango puree-which was sweet and spicy-perfectly flavored and absolutely delicious.  

We ordered a side of their classic Guacamole.  Now, if you've been reading A Boston Food Diary for any length of time- you might realise I'm a bit of a guacamole snob.  I'll eat basically any of it (I'm obsessed), but I have very strong and loud opinions when it isn't up to par.  Lolita's was good.  It wasn't fantastic, but it was good.  Obviously fresh avocados, good flavor, though a little overly acidic, and could have used a bit more cilantro etc.  Overall though the creamy deliciousness of the natural avocado was there, shining in its glory.

I chose the pulled pork tacos for my entree, billed as seared crispy and served with salsa verde. They were served additionally with pickled onions.  The pork was well flavored, though not especially crispy as advertised.  The lack of crispness was fine, and the fatty flavor of the pork was perfectly offset by the pickled onion and the slightly spicy salsa making for a very satisfying taco.  My only complaint here was that these tacos were served with just a single tortilla, and by my third taco, they were powerless against the liquid of the salsa and melted onto my plate in wet crumble.  

As we had filled ourselves up on chips, guacamole and dinner, we were too full for dessert, however that didn't stop Lolita's from delivering a towering pillar of green apple cotton candy sprinkled with pop rocks to our table.  It is obvious that Lolita's is all about the show, making their deliveries dramatic and their presentations fun, but they also deliver a quality product.  Is it the most authentic tasting Mexican food?  No-but it is solid, and fits a craving- if nothing more than for a very trendy night out.

It must also be noted that despite the trendiness of the place, and their drink menu, I found the prices of their food menu to be really very reasonable.  Their drinks are pricey- and so we found that each round ended up being almost as much as our entire meal.  Word to the wise- Lolita's, for all of it's show stopping "night out" appeal can be obtained on a budget-but stay away from their drinks if that's a concern. 


Lolita Cocina & Tequila Bar on Urbanspoon

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Mother Anna's, North End, Boston

It sits like a beacon at the top of Hanover Street- welcoming all visitors to the row of Italian cuisine.  Mother Anna's has sat in their space, a watchful eye over the North End, for over 7 decades serving up Italian classics, destined to satisfy those pasta "comfort food" cravings.  On a raw, rainy evening, I made my way to Mother Anna's to catch up with some wonderful former colleagues, and warm up with some hearty Italian fare.

We started our evening with a small plate of their Antipasti, which the waiter assured us would be plenty for us to share.  He was very right in his assessment.  A bowl was delivered to our table that was piled high with greens, hard boiled eggs, steamed green beans, roasted red peppers, salami, cheese and tuna.  It was a literal mountain of food rising out of its container.  I really enjoyed the variety of ingredients included in this selection.  The sharp provolone, the flaked tuna, and of course the salami.  I did feel a little sad for the green beans which had suffered the plight of being substantially over cooked, but all in all it was a nice selection, and absolutely more than enough food for the three of us.

It may sound odd, but I have an old standby when I head out for Italian.  Sometimes, I'm just not in the mood for red sauce, and when that occurs, I often order penne, chicken and broccoli.  I like to think it's healthy (kinda).  The beauty of this dish is that every place does it a little differently.  Mother Anna's was unlike any version I've seen before.  A big steaming bowl was placed in front of me full of penne blanketed in a cheesy sauce enhanced with spears and florets of broccoli and large chunks of chicken meat.  Though this version was much more decadent than the white wine sauce version I was anticipating, however it did have a really lovely flavor.  Sharp flavors of Parmesan were blended into the buttery sauce, and brightened with just a bit of white wine.  I would have enjoyed the spears of broccoli to have been a bit less cooked as their bright green hue had been cooked out into a duller, deeper color, but all in all the dish was hearty and satisfying.  

Mother Anna's doesn't present itself to be gourmet, nor is it.  It instills a family vibe, a welcoming presence, and its food echoes this feel.  Like your Italian Grandmother who begins heckling you for being "skin and bones" from the moment you enter her home, and then subsides into a chorus of "mangia, mangia"- Mother Anna's is down home classic food meant to fill you to the brim, and then send you home with the leftovers.   

Mother Anna's on Urbanspoon

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