Nantucket Gourmet, Nantucket

Saturday afternoon in Nantucket, I found myself with a bit of on my own down time.  I have recently become painfully aware that this type of alone time is difficult to come by, so I chose to relish it.  I took a quick tour around town, and then decided to get a lunch to go, and enjoy it in the quiet serenity of our inn's back yard.  I had been referred to Nantucket Gourmet by several people pre trip and so I took the opportunity to check them out. 

Nantucket Gourmet is a bit of an "all purpose" location, containing a store full of kitchen gadgets and gourmet products, and, in the back, a small deli counter where sandwiches are made to order.  To make ordering a breeze, a large stack of order forms sit on the counter with a plate of pens so you can check off the ingredients that you most desire in your sandwich (or wrap).  The choices are pretty extensive, so your sandwich gets to be as unique as you are (queue cheesy music now).

Breads include Baguette, ciabatta, wheat berry, or a choice of wrap (spinach, tomato, chili, etc).  After the bread is chosen comes the fun part of marking off your fillers- a list of condiments including two types of mustard, dressings, hummus, hot peppers are available to choose from.  Meats are next and include ham, turkey, chicken breast, roast beef, and tuna salad among others.  Finally you get to veggies and cheeses, the list of which stretches out to include the typical (lettuce, cheddar) to the atypical (cornichon, brie).  I had a tough choice in making up my order but finally settled on on a half sandwich made with Wheat berry Bread, artichoke spread, grilled chicken breast, carrots, tomato and cucumbers. 

The lovely ladies behind the counter take your order form and construct your sandwich right then leaving you just the right amount of time to browse, but short enough so you don't get into too much trouble (what do you mean I don't need a single cup French Press?).  Once your sandwich is made, its packed into a paper sack with a bag of chips and little container of olives, and you are ready to take it off on your journeys for the day.

Sitting outside, enjoying the sweet ocean breezes and enjoying a picnic was a wonderful way to spend a Saturday.  The sandwich was stuffed full of fresh crisp vegetables, and tender smoky grilled chicken.  The bread soft and chewy, though I would have loved a stronger wheat berry taste to it.  All in all though, I love all of the options that the Nantucket Gourmet presented me with to create my perfect lunch, and they put them together in a filling sandwich.

I will say that I found the prices a bit steep  ($6.35 for a half, $9.15 for the whole) but I suppose that when you're on Nantucket....      

The Summer House, Nantucket

Oh Todd English...you certainly are a charming one aren't you?  Just when I had all about written you off after some lackluster dining experiences, you go and surprise me.  It was just this past April when Boston Magazine took it upon itself to issue it's break up letter to you on behalf of the city.  I read every word of that letter, I chuckled, and I agreed.  I echoed it's disgruntled prose on you being absent from the kitchens of Boston.  I felt it's abandonment as you have found yourself bigger, more exciting markets.  A few days later, I laughed again, at your supposed response listed on Boston.com calling the city out for it's insecurities, our romanticism.  I, like a scorned girlfriend, laughed a bit too loudly at your remarks, outwardly casting them aside as utterances of an ignorant man, but inside wondering if they were true.  Either way, I proceeded on with my life, resolved to cut ties with Mr. English, and find new and better chefs to fill my needs.  This weekend however, as I enjoyed the pure beauty of Nantucket's quaint villages and picturesque shoreline, I found myself thrown deeply back in love with Todd English.

Tucked away in the tiny community called Sconset lies a hotel and restaurant bearing the name The Summer House.  Here, with it's majestic views, and private spaces, contains one of the newer Todd English restaurants, taken over just a couple years ago.  My party and I gathered, a bit early, in the lounge of the restaurant, and, seated next to a beautiful grand piano which would later produce wonderful dinner music, we enjoyed a cocktail.  I selected a dark and stormy- a wonderful mix of ginger beer and dark rum- my favorite summer time drink.  The warm and spicy mix of the cocktail warmed me to my surroundings and its relaxed, white, beachy ambiance relaxed me into its hospitality.  

Once we were shown to our table, and menus presented, I found that I had a very difficult time selecting my meal.  I bantered back and forth between starting with an interesting sounding Caprese Salad which included a basil ricotta, or selecting the Beef Carpaccio.  I finally landed firmly on the Carpaccio and was treated to a beautiful dish of perfectly rare beef, sliced to a paper thin perfection, well salted and peppered and then drizzled with a truffle vinaigrette and balsamic vinegar.  This was a perfect rendition of carpaccio.  The truffle vinaigrette was thick and creamy, and while it had the flavor of luxurious truffles, it didn't overwhelm the rest of the dish.  The balsamic played similarly, punching in notes of sweetness, but not overtaking the dish.  I adored this dish.  

As a note, our table also enjoyed two platters of Vineyard oysters- these were also perfection.  Briney and sweet, these chilled oysters were easy to enjoy, and were actually a pleasure to the palate.

I had an equally difficult time choosing my entree as I did my appetizer, but finally settled on their Halibut, served with prosciutto over the top, and resting on a blue cheese yogurt sauce.  The flavor combination within this dish was outstanding.  I ordered it based almost solely on the blue cheese yogurt component (I'm such a sucker for interesting ingredients), but was enthralled with all of it.  The halibut, a meaty white fish, had delicate, yet clean flavors, and when paired with a slightly smoky, salty prosciutto- the fish was elevated to the next level.  The real beauty here was adding in that yogurt sauce to each bite.  The sauce had the tang of yogurt, with just hints of that stinky blue cheese to it, both flavors playing together in harmony.  I had anticipated one being much stronger than the other, but the result of perfect proportions here allowed them work together and complement the fish, while still allowing the natural fish flavor to shine. This was a perfectly executed dish.  

I ended my meal with orange panna cotta.  Now it takes a lot for me to steer myself away from a molten chocolate cake (a LOT), but just a couple of bites into this delicate dish and I was glad I had chosen it.  Creamy panna cotta, offset with natural orange sweetness comprised a perfect end to my meal.

I walked in to The Summer House, cocky, and daring them to impress me.  I laughed at the name Todd English and thought "that guy? He's yesterday's news".  I entered with my head held high, believing that Boston Magazine had done us all a favor by breaking up with him.  I left, rather begrudgingly after an evening of delicious food, bounteous wine, and wonderful company, wondering if I sent him a box of chocolates if he'd take us back.  Chocolates and a bottle of wine...or two?    

Company of the Cauldron, Nantucket

A few years ago one of my favorite young chefs, Daniel Silver, was working out on Nantucket at a small, quaint restaurant called Company of the Cauldron.  I had the (mis)fortune of only visiting Nantucket during the off season, when the highly acclaimed Company was closed.  Though I was able to tour the space, and meet with the owners, I didn't have the opportunity to sample their fare.  Since then, Dan has moved on, clear across the country to Aspen, Colorado, but my desire to dine at Company has remained.  This past weekend, during a quick trip to Nantucket, my dream came true.  I had dinner at Company of the Cauldron.

Company of the Cauldron is an intimate restaurant set on the cobblestone street called India, just off of the main downtown area.  A cauldron hanging from the door jam is it's main indicator, though menus outside the door confirm it's presence. Unassuming in decor, the Cauldron has a unique offering to it's guests- a prix fixe meal, with a set menu each evening.  There are no options to the menu, what is listed is what is served.  Of course, if you have allergies or preferences a simple call to the restaurant a few days prior to your reservation will guarantee that tweaks to the nightly menu will be taken.  The restaurant has two nightly seating's, once at 6:45 and one at 8:45.  We arrived at 8:35 pm for our 8:45 seating and found a crowd waiting outside the door, apparently when they say 8:45- they mean it.  The doors to the restaurant were not opened until the minute hand struck the 45 mark, and we were seated as we walked into the space.

It was an interesting experience to me to not have to read a menu at all, we perused the wine list briefly, made our selection, Wild Horse Pinot Noir-one of my all time favorites, and then were free to dip into the bread served with sesame hummus.  I always enjoy when the bread course is served with something a little different and the sesame hummus was a nice twist.  I had to cut myself off though- my excitement for the dinner was rising by the minute.

Our first course was a house made ricotta cavatelli served in a puree of fresh local peas, accented with chopped black truffles, crispy pancetta and mint.  The cavatelli had light subtle flavor, yet had a wonderful chewy texture which gave a perfect textural release when combined with the almost soup like consistency of the pea puree.  Peas served with mint is such a classic pairing, and here the mint assumed it's role of complimenting the fresh peas with finesse. I was pleasantly surprised that the truffles didn't overwhelm the dish, as sometimes truffle flavor can, and I loved the crispy pancetta.  To be frank-I easily could have licked my plate clean.  Out of respect to my sister, my dining companion, and to the staff at Company, I refrained.  

Our entrees were served in perfect timing to our first course plates being cleared- a few moments of rest between the two.  The selection for the evening was a wood grilled sirloin topped with bacon jam, served over Parmesan grits, and complimented with a fennel and fresh peach slaw.  The sirloin, tender to the bite, was served a perfect medium rare, with pure and clean beef flavor ringing through.  The bacon jam was smoky and delicious, and I swear I detected light flavors of cherry as well- which was absolutely wonderful.  I loved the use of grits with this dish.  They were cheesy and delicious, and their slightly grainy texture really made them stand out from a typical "potato" or "polenta" side.  Finally, the slaw was the most unique component- fennel and peaches dressed with an Asian inspired sauce.  Had I known that it would have an Asian feel to it, I probably would have doubted it's addition on the plate.  The rest of the dish seemed almost down home, and Southern, this slaw would have seemed out of place.  However, in it's application, it was light and refreshing, and a perfect compliment to the rest of the meal.  The light soy and ginger flavors lent brightness to an otherwise heavy dish.

Dessert for the evening was Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta served with Yuzu curd and macerated blueberries.  I have to say, this summer, I am loving Panna Cotta, the light, formed similar to pudding dessert is just so refreshing in the hot months.  Company of the Cauldron's version had the perfect amount of vanilla included to make it stand apart, but not overwhelm the delicate dessert.  

All in all, Company of the Cauldron executed exactly as I thought that they would- wonderfully.  Each course contained elements of uniqueness, but with every component complimenting the others.  Every item was perfectly seasoned, and cooked to the correct temperatures.  Every course was creative and delicious. 

I am thrilled to have finally gotten to sample the food at Company of the Cauldron. Though my friend Dan has moved on, I was confident that any place he has worked is an establishment that produces fantastic food.  When you're headed to the beautiful island of Nantucket, please be sure to stop by Company of the Cauldron- you won't be disappointed.

And, because I feel the need to promote friends when I can, Daniel Silver now holds the position of Chef De Cuisine at Syzygy in Aspen, Colorado if you're in that neck of the woods.   

Black Eyed Susans, Nantucket, MA

This past weekend I had the distinct pleasure of taking part in one of the best parts of living in Boston-spending time on "the islands" specifically, Nantucket. This being only my second visit in all the time Ive lived in Massachusetts, I am still totally enraptured with this island. It is absolutely the quintessential New England "town" complete with cobblestone streets, and historical architectural preservation societies. It is one of those places that you can imagine a horse drawn buggy in place of the present day cars. They have maintained this integrity, but all the while all of the vacationers needs are met from beautiful beaches, shopping galore, gorgeous views, and, of course, amazing dining experiences.

Monday evening I had the opportunity to go to one of the well loved establishments on the island, Black Eyed Susans. Located in the heart of their down town are, this is a quaint little restaurant serving basic new American fare, at a high quality. We chose to sit at a long counter that over looked the kitchen so we could watch the chef prepare each dish as the orders came in. I have to say- I was completely enthralled by this experience. I spend FAR too much time watching the Food Network, and asking ridiculous questions in restaurants to anyone who seems to be in the know, but sitting at a counter that for all intents and purposes was in the kitchen completely blew me away. To watch a chef create dish after dish, adding a little of this and a little of that, working in conjunction with his sous chef, creating the rhythm between them- well to say it was fascinating is worlds largest understatement. I can take full responsibility for being a horrible conversationalist throughout the evening.

We started with one of their appetizer specials for the evening, fried soft shell crab in a tempura batter, dressed with a peanut sauce. The crab was fried perfectly golden brown, and the tempura batter was just light enough to allow the flavor of the crab to shine through. Ive often been disappointed in fried seafood as the batter, or method of frying, sometimes takes away the delicate flavors of the seafood. It is a hard balance to reach, and I thought that Black Eyed Susans well maintained it. The peanut sauce that was served with the crab was also well balanced. Oddly enough I had had a conversation earlier in the week with a good friend of mine who had had a bad experience making her own peanut sauce- the recipe had instructed her to use too much soy sauce making the end result incredibly salty and, unfortunately, inedible. Personally, I have had peanut sauces that have been too "peanutty", whereby I feel as though I'm eating a big tablespoon of peanut butter which is not very enjoyable, and extremely over powering. The sauce that was served with the crab was very well combined- the strong peanut flavor was cut beautifully with what I assume was soy sauce and other oils etc. It was rich and full without completely overshadowing the crab, and rather really enhanced it. I found this dish to be perfect.

As D knew the chef we were sent a second appetizer as well, asparagus, mache and mozzarella salad with an oven dried tomato vinaigrette enhanced with a lavender honey. I have to say, for the evening, this was by far my favorite dish. The asparagus was cooked and cooled so it was crisp and refreshing, the vinaigrette captured a slight tartness that was beautifully offset with the sweet lavender honey, the mozzarella was cold and creamy, and the mache provided that very subtle crunch to round out the textures of the dish. The dish captured every essence of summer for me. Hot summer days all I want is something cool and refreshing, without losing the comfort of cream. Every ingredient in this dish played into this. The asparagus and mache were light, cool, crisp and delicious, and the mozzarella and the honey played into an indulgence factor with their sweet and creamy combination. This was honestly a dish that I found to be beyond perfect, and I was extremely sad when it was finished.

As a quick aside, as I had to look into it as well, Mache, also known as "lambs lettuce", is a mild green often served with other greens and lettuces, and reminded me greatly of micro greens. It was small and delicate, almost with more stem than leaf. So there is my interpretation of what Mache is- for those confused as I was.

I had been told that Black Eyed Susans is known for their linguine with clams in a white sauce, and so I decided to go with the tried and true. It is my impression that what a restaurant is able to do with a "simple" dish, such as linguine with clams, is a great indicator for their quality. Having one of these dishes shine, and not get left in the dust for some of their "showier" entrees, indicates that there is real quality to the place, and dedication to the craft. That is, at least, my impression. On that note, if I were to use only their linguine with clams as an indicator, I would be more than excited to try the rest their menu. The flavors of the white sauce were spot on. The presence of garlic, though beautifully in the background, enhanced by parsley and generous additions of clams made it slightly rustic but delicious. During plating they had also added small piles of ground black pepper and Parmesan cheese to the side of the bowl for the consumer to add as desired. I found this touch to be a fantastic addition, often there is too much cheese, or not enough pepper. This touch was thoughtful, and made the meal a constant work in progress up to each individual. I loved it.

D had ordered their halibut special- served with tofu, spinach and bacon based demi glace. The way that the chef had described had made it sound beautiful, but honestly- the dish surpassed even those expectations. Luckily I was offered a bite. Each flavor was preserved in its own right, and I even enjoyed the tofu, though I rarely do.

We also ordered dessert, which of course I'm not going to remember the proper name for, but was basically a pot of chocolate mousse, topped with fresh whipped cream and served with three cookies on the side, a macaroon, a white chocolate chip cookie, and chocolate chocolate chip cookie. The chocolate pot was delicious- the chocolate was rich and slightly tart which to me is a sign of a great chocolate, and the it was nicely lightened by the whipped cream topping. The cookies were good as well, though I wasn't blown away by the, though at that point my expectations were probably over the top for cookies.

I have to also note, Black Eyed Susans has a BYOB policy, and so we had brought a couple of bottles of wine with us. I was rather honored to share a bottle from my friends reserve selection. The chosen was from the Silverado Vineyards of Napa, a Fantasia wine, vintage 2002, comprised of 54 percent Sangiovese 43 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 3 percent Zinfandel. The result was full bodied, ripe fruits with a delicate finish. I couldn't quite place what it was, though I believe we narrowed it down to the ripeness of the fruit, but I had a very strong feeling of Port within the wine as well, though without its characterized sweetness. By far, this is one of the best bottles of wine I have had the pleasure to enjoy.

Black Eyed Susans far surpassed my expectations. Knowing my friend who recommended it, I knew it would be good, but I did not anticipate the variety and the expertise and the thoughtfulness of the meal. E- I am working on a rating system-but you can be sure that I would offer this my highest rating.

http://www.black-eyedsusans.com/