Showing posts with label Restaurant Review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Restaurant Review. Show all posts

Monday, November 26, 2012

The Back Deck, Downtown Crossing, Boston

The Downtown Crossing area of Boston has really come along way in the last few years. Once a place deserted at night, now comes alive as hosts of new restaurants and bars open in the area. One such place though is straying from the norm of the gastro pub and run of the mill taverns and is offering Bostonians the magic of Summer all year long. The Back Deck is adorned with paintings and is decorated in a way to make you feel like the warm, light air is always around despite those frigid temps that are on their way. I dined there on a night where spirits were high among the diners and it wasn't hard to envision the merriment of a back yard BBQ.


We decided to enjoy our summer throwback by ordering several of their smaller dishes and sharing- so we ordered their turkey burger, to which we added Swiss cheese and it was served with a choice of fries, potato salad or slaw (in typical backyard BBQ fashion)- we opted for the fries. We also settled on their Sausage and Mashed, billed as andouille sausage grilled over charcoal and served with mashed potatoes and gumbo greens. Finally we also ordered their Beef Kabob - served with a tomato-caper chutney, cornbread and a green salad.

The beef kabob was delicious- cooked to order, smokey cubes of grilled meat were tender and flavorful. Paired with the acidic and salty chutney, I felt as though I was at a party hosted by a friend- one who served well thought out, well planned foods to please their guests.

The andouille sausage was also very tasty- slightly spicy with the same wonderful char flavor I was looking for. A bite of this fatty (in a good way) meat, with a heaping forkful of the creamy mashed potatoes and I knew Id hit a good combination. Potatoes are such a decadent and delicious way to cool spice- makes me want to always heat heaping mounds of buttery potatoes whenI have anything spicy. The salad served with it was light and refreshing- exactly what was wanted as a palate cleanser.

Next up was the turkey burger and here was a the miss of the evening. It goes without saying that turkey meat doesn't have as much fat in it as beef does and therefore can be drier if not handled correctly. Unfortunately those steps were missed, and the result was an extremely dry patty. The potato bun it was served on was nice, it had nice flavor, it was a good size for the burger itself, the dish just lost itself on its star. I did not end up spending any extraneous bites on this one.

We ended our meal with the dessert that couldn't be ignored- the Back Deck's S'more. Touting homemade graham crackers, and cranberry marshmallows we couldn't resist. The graham crackers had a wonderful rustic look to them, enforcing their homemade premise, and were full of rich spicy flavor. The cranberry marshmallow nicely hovered the line of sweet and tart, and was oozing forth from the graham crackers with the gooeyness of a good roast over a fire. My disappointment here lay in their decision to pair a classic Hershey square with this. The waxy, almost fake tasting chocolate distracted from the flavors of the other ingredients and poisoned them with its cheapness. A good piece of dark, rich chocolate would have been the piece to make this dessert worth returning for.

Overall, I enjoyed my time at the Back Deck. The frivolity of the atmosphere combined with their dedication to charcoal grilling will make them stand out as a spot to head to as the snow swirls through the narrow alleyways of Downtown Crossing. There were, of course, some misses, but as the grill falls into its routine more and more Im sure those can be ironed out.

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Landing, Newport, Rhode Island

My view for dinner
My second trip to Newport this summer came courtesy of one of my favorite ladies saying goodbye to her single days and celebrating taking the big leap with her girlfriends.  We journeyed down to Newport and spent our day sitting on the beach, soaking up the sun and girl talk, and then we headed out for a dinner among friends. 

Now the thing about Newport is that there aren't many places that will take reservations, and even fewer who will take them for parties of 12.  So we found one who said they would be able to seat us, and headed on over.  When we arrived however, they decided that their kitchen wasn't able to "handle" a party of 12 and so we set off to find another spot.  We made our way down Thames Street and to the main drag and were guided unknowingly to the Landing, seafood restaurant located on Bowens Wharf, with gorgeous views of the harbor.  Miraculously they cut the hour and half wait down to 5 minutes, and went out of their way to make us comfortable and create an enjoyable atmosphere for us. 

Though I was tempted by the lobster roll, perusing the menu further found me face to face with grilled swordfish, served with grilled pineapple and a peach salsa and complimented with sauteed mushrooms and mashed potatoes.  I skipped the mashed potatoes and settled on just the vegetables and the swordfish for my dinner, and it was a decision I did not regret.  

The swordfish was perfectly cooked, tender to the fork, melt in your mouth texture and full of its natural buttery flavor.  On it's own it was perfection but with the addition of the fruit accompaniments- it was beyond.  The pineapple was presented in two perfect slices, grilled and then stacked on top of the thick slab of fish.  The peaches, diced and paired with herbs and seasonings artfully fell off to the side of the fish, and both added bursts of fresh sweetness to the robust fish.  The sauteed vegetables were anticipated to be an afterthought, but as they sat in their julienned state, bright with the colors of zucchini and carrot, their flavor was fresh and showed the butter they had obviously been cooked in.  I cleaned my plate.  Every last morsel was savored.

I walked into Landing assuming I'd be underwhelmed.  I decided ahead of time that it was a tourist trap and as such, it couldn't possibly have tasty food.  I was proven wrong with my dish, and others felt similarly with their meals.  That isn't to say there weren't missteps however.  The majority of us had only one course, and yet our dinner took a full two and a half hours.  While we all enjoyed the atmosphere and the company, we were anxious to proceed with our plans by the end of the meal.   That said- I would return in a heart beat.

Monday, July 16, 2012

Perro Salado, Newport, Rhode Island

Newport is one of the spots around New England that truly signifies summer to me.  Full of vacationing families and couples, its main streets are packed with tanned people dashing away from the surrounding beaches and in to the variety of ice cream shops, fudge stands, restaurants and shops along the way.  The din of happy chatter replaces the roar of cars as everything seems to move a little slower, just as it should in a vacation spot. I

Ive had the opportunity to head down a couple times already this summer, during the first I had the chance to visit Perro Salado, a family operated  traditional Mexican restaurant in the heart of the downtown area.  The charm of Perro Salado emits as soon as you arrive at their establishment - an antique home whose very floor boards creak with history.  Inside the restaurant bustles with happy patrons, a full kitchen and a friendly staff.

I was there to eat for sure, and started my meal with their guacamole, a staple for me in Mexican restaurants, and their sticky pork ribs, a highly recommended dish.  I dug into the guacamole first and foremost and found it to be a smooth avocado puree flavored with a healthy dose of lime juice, spiced with a gentle heat, and then mixed with chopped onions, tomatoes and pipians (or pepitas).  I loved the addition of the pipians- they added a unique, earthy textural contrast that highlighted the smoothness of the avocado and the brightness from the acidic lime juice.  The guacamole was served with fresh, thick corn chips that served as the perfect vehicle for the dip.

I then poked my fork into the sticky pork ribs.  I soon found that once that initial poke had occurred it became increasingly difficult to stop poking at them.  The meat easily fell off the bone, the result of obvious hours of gently cooking the meat in its sauce of  bursting of rich flavors of orange, cherry, molasses and cinnamon.  The ribs had a slight char to them as well- and together they presented a delightful smokey and sweet combination.  Served with pickled onions, the tangy flavor complimented the ribs perfectly.  They were fantastic.

I decided on the fish tacos for my main course.  The menu billed them as beer battered mahi mahi, but after a brief conversation I found that grilled was also offered and so I later dug into my double corn tortilla encased grilled fish tacos, topped with a cabbage slaw, fresh cilantro, a chipotle flavored mayo and served with fresh jalapenos, lime wedges, more pickled onions and fresh pico de gallo on the side, it was a beautiful dish to view, and a fun one to enjoy.  The fish itself had been marinated in a slightly spicy marinade, which was immediately cooled with the creamy mayonnaise based sauce.  I appreciated the options to add as many jalapenos as I wanted, and loved piling on the pickled onions to my hearts content.  The flavors were fresh and full bodied and created a wonderful harmony as I plowed through them.

I ended my visit to Perro Salado with their Chocolate Volcano Cake- a moist cake which easily gave way to a melted center with a simple fork  puncture.  The flavor was deeply chocolate and spiced with chipotles adding to the intrigue of the dish.  This was served with a mango cream and a traditional whipped cream, both of which allowed for a little relief to ones taste buds in between bites of cake. 

Perro Salado was a treat to visit.  Every room offered the beauty and the charm of historic Newport, while the food was a welcome deviation from the normal fare of the vacation community.  The chef puts his heart into each dish and creates a wonderful harmony of flavors and textures with every bite. 

Monday, June 18, 2012

Lineage, Brookline

Birthday's are little bits of heaven aren't they?  When you're a kid you count down to them in minutes until you're the next age, but as you grow older the excitement starts to dim a bit...until the day actually arrives.  I'll admit it- I wasn't looking forward to this birthday-not one bit.  I was dreading so many things about it- but I have to say-since the moment I woke up this morning I have been so surrounded by love from friends and family that I can do nothing but bask in the glory of the day.  

Now as much as I was dreading the day, I was not dreading the food that I had planned for the event.  I kicked off the eating fun on Saturday night with a dinner at Lineage, located in Coolidge Corner.   The first restaurant by Beard award winner Jeremy Sewall, Lineage is a special place.  Their menu centers mainly on seafood, and creates dishes with a heavy focus on local ingredients, including lobster that is gathered by a cousin of Sewall.  It doesn't get much fresher than that.  

We began our meal with Spicy Lobster Tacos.  Petite crunchy taco shells were filled with fresh pieces of lobster meat, a mango salsa and a creamy avocado mousse creating a wonderful combination of crunch, sweet lobster and creamy avocado.  Every texture complimented the others, and the flavors were well proportioned between natural sweetness, a bit of spice and just a hint of saltiness.  I really enjoyed these as a wonderful appetite wetting start to our meal.

In a serious lobster mood I decided to go all out and get a lobster themed dish for my main entree as well.  The featured entree of the evening was gnocchi, pan seared and served in a pan sauce featuring large chunks of fresh Maine lobster, English peas, leeks and just a hint of mint.  This was an incredible dish.  The gnocchi were lighter than typical, and the accompanying sauce was fresh and full of flavor, with the sweetness of the lobster offset by the subtle flavor of mint.  The sauce was savory with the leeks and the peas added a delightful texture.  I would have licked my plate had I not been in public...in a nice restaurant and trying to be a lady.

Lineage was a wonderful spot to kick off birthday celebrations, a place where every diner feels well taken care of, and each evening special. 

Monday, June 4, 2012

Mooo, Beacon Hill, Boston

There is a certain quiet elegance that encases downtown Boston. Unlike the hustle and bustle of New York, or the laid back beauty of LA, Boston is subtle, sophisticated and yet, commanding. It is a town of strong ideals, historic culture, overwhelming pride and a pretty awesome sense of humor.  It is only logical that in the very heart of the city, a restaurant would exist that would celebrate these very ideals. 

Mooo sits in the historic XV Beacon hotel, originally built in 1903 and situated at the very crest of Beacon Hill, next door to the grandeur of the current State House.  Mooo is touted as a contemporary take on the classic steakhouse, but I believe it is so much more. Its dining room oozes of the same understated elegance of the city itself, and its private function room, a gorgeous wine cellar is steeped in the history that this city is known for.  With wine bottles salvaged from ship wrecks, and long lost vintages, it is worth a trip for the curious eye...

The ambiance of Mooo is anything but a classic steakhouse- here the dark undertones have been elevated into lighter tones, and a generally airy feel.  The often overwhelming chandeliers have been muted with large shades, making them feel cozier.  The artwork is the real statement here.  Up close and personal images of friendly cows decorate the walls, adding just a bit of scandal to this steak house.  

The staff is extremely knowledgeable of their menu, inclusive of wine lists, and after welcoming me in, balanced the perfect line of social and leaving me to investigate their flavors.

I began my meal with their Tuna Tartar.  A perfectly formed disc of large chunks of tuna, lightly tossed with chives, and then placed in a moat of citrus ginger dressing and topped with earthy micro greens was set in front of me.  Very little salt was used in this dish and that was a wonderful decision by the chef.  The tuna was a pure flavor, and when mixed with a little chive or the ginger citrus dressing variations were formed, which kept the dish interesting.  The simplicity of this rendition made it one of the best I've had-it was difficult to put my fork down.

I always have difficulty choosing which steak I want to indulge in when I visit steakhouses, however the staff at Moo made my decision simple as I selected their Painted Hills New York Sirloin.  This was a 14 oz grass and grain fed steak from the Painted Hills, a collaborative ranch out of Wheeler County in Oregon.  I paired this with their Whipped Yukon Gold Potatoes and their B&B Mushrooms.

The B&B Mushrooms were button mushrooms sauteed and served in a brandy and butter sauce.  These were some of the plumpest, juiciest mushrooms I've had the pleasure of enjoying.  However, I did feel that the brandy had been applied with a bit of a light hand and it's punch of flavor wasn't felt in the side dish.  

The potatoes, on the other hand, had wonderful flavor with notes of butter and cream circulating throughout them, and perfect texture stemming from the whipping of real potatoes.  The flavor here was also pure, without the addition of too much salt, and with just a small smattering of chives on top to vary the flavor when desired.  

The steak, above all, was a piece of artwork.  Served with a bone marrow butter as a simple accompaniment, the flavor of the steak stood well on it's own. The beauty of the grass fed beef is the more delicate flavors that are found- the light hints of sun drenched grass and healthy grains.  Moo seasoned and cooked this steak beautifully, a perfect medium rare was found on the inside.  I found that the butter wasn't at all needed, though I did love its visual affect, served in a bone.  

Though I knew dessert would be overdoing it, I was talked into trying their Banana's Foster (they really had to twist my arm on that one).  An ample size boat filled with scoops of creamy vanilla ice cream with bruleed banana halves in between was set in front of me, and then, table side, the steaming hot sauce was poured over the top.  Rich scents of butter and sweet banana wafted immediately to my nose and as I dipped my spoon into a sphere of ice cream and caught some of the sauce- the flavors were bright and delicious.  I really enjoyed the bruleed bananas-their crisp top provided a lovely textural contrast to a traditional dessert.

Mooo was an absolute delight, and I must thank them for having me in to explore their menu.  Their dishes are put together with attention to details, and obvious pride in their ingredients.  They do not feel the need to add salt or seasoning where it isn't needed, but instead have faith that the ingredients they have chosen are of the highest quality.  Mooo is definitely doing steak right, and is a wonderful place to celebrate the beauty of Boston.         

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Connie's Bakery, Provincetown, MA

It would be so easy to start this post waxing poetic about Boston, or Summer in Boston, or really anything having to do with Summertime.  It would be so easy because, as the country celebrated the start to the summer months, I kicked things off here in traditional fashion- I jaunted to the Cape.  Of course, anyone from around here knows that a "jaunt" to the Cape is anything but as more often than not it includes traffic, traffic and a little bit more traffic.  And yet, this weekend, I definitely jaunted.  I boarded a boat in downtown Boston (which was nicely un congested due to everyone being on, ahem, the Cape) and an hour and a half later my friend and I reached our destination the outermost point of the Cape- Provincetown. 

Provincetown, or PTown as we lovingly refer to it 'round these parts, was one of the first stops by the Pilgrims to our great shores, first reaching it in 1620 aboard the Mayflower.  Since then PTown has welcomed people of all kind to it's beautiful shores and has offered hospitality in it's quaint village.  I had never had the opportunity to check it out previously and was thrilled to explore.  A known art community PTown is filled with art galleries, antique stores and boutiques...as well as some stellar food.  Obviously- I was there to indulge my appetite.  

Our first stop came highly recommended- Connie's Bakery located right on the main drag of Commercial Street.  Since we arrived at the island during what could still be considered breakfast time- I opted for an egg sandwich, and I couldn't resist their cinnamon roll. Connie's had lots of options for their egg sandwiches, from different types of bread, to choices between simple (egg and cheese), carnivorous (egg, cheese and meat), to a veggie lovers- packing that egg in with peppers, onions, spinach and mushrooms.  I went veggie style on wheat and was served a piping hot sandwich wedged between a delicate whole wheat roll bursting with seeds and hearty grains.  The encased omelet was filled to the brim with delicious sauteed vegetables and layered with melty cheese.  As someone who normally loves Tabasco on my eggs, I was thrilled that Connie's had packed so much flavor into their offering that I didn't miss it at all.  

Obviously dessert was needed for breakfast, so my friend and I tore into the cinnamon bun.  Un traditional in it's flat appearance, this bun was oozing with pure flavors of cinnamon, butter and sugar- exactly what I look for in my cinnamon buns.  The uniqueness of the bun made it truly delightful- since, as we all know the best bite of a roll is that inner section where all the flavor lives.  The flat style of Connie's offering made it easy for every bite to be like that last bite- truly delicious.

Connie's doesn't have any seating inside it's small space, but just a few steps from its doors sits a lovely beach with soft sand and view of the harbor that makes any breakfast complete.  Between the sun, the waves crashing and a delicious breakfast- we were off to a good start...  

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Turner FIsheries, Westin Copley, Boston

As the temperatures increase around these parts my infatuation with seafood begins to flow off the charts. I don't know what it is but summertime just seems made for all things that live within the ocean waters. Last week I had the chance to try out the menu at beloved Turner Fisheries in downtown Boston and I couldn't have been more excited.



See the great thing about Turners is not just that they select only the freshest, often organic and sustainable, seafood to serve to their patrons but they create masterpieces around it. Simple twists on age old classics, award winning clam chowder and creative new dishes makes the menu interesting and fresh. They also have some daily specials that are both taste bud and wallet friendly.


We kicked off our evening with the Atlantic Shelf -a generous tower of fresh shellfish including clams, mussels, scallops, oysters and mammoth shrimp. Served with a delightful helping of cocktail sauce enhanced with extra horseradish, the sweet, fresh, chilled shellfish was a delight.


The evening that we dined at Turners was damp and gray and as I perused the menu I was drawn to the warming dishes most of all. The table began to rave about the milk product free Smoked Tomato Bisque served with fried basil and I knew I had to order it. A big bowl of steaming tomato soup was set in front of me, artfully served with a single leaf of fried basil balanced on top. The scent that wafted to my nose-full of natural sweetness, hearty acidity and a hint of smoke made me reach for my spoon. The soup was delicious, full of rich notes of smoke balanced with the brightness created by the acidic fruit. The true wonder here was the creamy undertones that were present, comforting and delicious, that were created without the addition of cream. This is a lactose intolerant persons dream. I cleaned my bowl, despite my desire to resist.


Still craving the comfort of broths and soups I settled on Turner's New England Bouillabaisse for my entree. Another large bowl was set in front of me, chock full of perfectly cooked seafood. Table side a small pot of tomato based broth was poured over teheran top, and with a mashed potato swirled crostini decorating the side, my dinner was complete. The dish contained a wonderful mix of flakey white fish, plump shrimp, tender calamari and tasty mussels. Every piece was well cooked and full of fresh natural flavors. The broth was light, thin and yet bursting with flavor of tomato and herbs. This was a wonderful dish for those stormy summer nights, creating an ocean oasis away from the pounding rain.


Of course dessert was next to arrive, and are choices were well varied. The menu artfully ranged from decadent chocolate to refreshing chilled treats, and one that truly intrigued me-lemon puffs. Fresh pastry puffs filled with a lemon cream, this burst of citrus flavor screamed summer dessert to me. The sweet tart flavor of the lemon created the illusion of "light" and as each little treasure seemed small on its own, this was a dessert that one could easily pretend was part of that summer diet.


Turner's has become a go to for me. The staff is welcoming and knowledgable and management is constantly seeking ways to keep their offering fresh, interesting and current. This summer Turners has a host of offerings to maximize the diners value-I urge you to check them out!

• Bar Bites & Beverages

Monday - Friday, 5-7 pm
Turner’s is now serving a special bar bites and beverages menu on weekdays from 5-7 pm. Come relax in our lounge after work with your co-workers and friends and enjoy a menu of $5 appetizers, all of which are made with fresh, sustainable seafood and the finest ingredients. The special menu will also feature a rotating selection of beers, red and white wines and a specialty cocktail.


• Monday Night Sustainable Fish
Mondays, 5-10pm
A different sustainable fish entrée featured each Monday for only $20.00!


• Wednesday Lobster Night
Wednesdays, 5-10pm
2 Lb. Lobsters for $35.00 - while supplies last.


• Thursday Neighborhood Night
Thursdays, 5-10pm
50% off your entree if you live in our neighborhood. (Back Bay or South End)


• Dollar Oyster Friday
Fridays, 5-10pm (while supplies last)
An array of East Coast oysters for $1.00 apiece.

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Lone Star Taco Bar, Allston, MA

It doesn't seem like all that long ago when I was consistently complaining about the lack of good Mexican food here in Boston.  I remember it well- I believe it was a year ago.  I'm not sure what happened in that time, but all of a sudden restaurateurs got the message and casual taco places to sit down authentic Mexican eateries have been popping up all over the city. The latest to open it's doors is Lone Star, a tiny spot adjoining Deep Ellum in Allston.  They seem to share a kitchen, and Lone Star definitely seems to pilfer some of Deep Ellum's beers, but otherwise, the concentration of the two spots couldn't be more different.  Deep Ellum rests comfortably on its laurels of finely crafted cocktails accompanying re born American foods.  Lone Star is serving Mexican street food, tacos and torta's, corn on the cob and hot crisp chips, with a heavy concentration on tequila's. 

I headed over to check out Lone Star with a friend who gets a little shout out here.  Chris was my co- RA (oh yes I was an RA in college- doesn't that tell you more than you need to know about me?) my senior year of college.   We bonded over our "relaxed" methods of leading our floor, and he dealt with my severe senior slump.  Since then Chris has traveled the world, from Prague to Shanghai and is finally back in Boston now.  Here's the true plug- Chris has a blog of his own, and is an incredibly talented writer-check him out: http://baoziandthebund.tumblr.com/

We settled into a booth in Lone Star and placed our order- a serving of their house made to order Guacamole and a couple of tacos- the Carnitas Pork (confit pork shoulder, salsa verde, cilantro, and queso fresco) and the Grilled Avocado With Griddled Queso Or Braised Tofu (salsa verde and corn relish) for me.  The guacamole arrived first.  It was served in a large mortar, and was bedecked with small wedges of lime.  The guacamole itself contained large pieces of fresh avocado and a hint of onion from some scallions found peppered throughout.  The surprising component to this guacamole however was how creamy it was.  Of course the natural properties of avocados are often described as "creamy" and they are often used as a cooling agent in spicy dishes because of this attribute.  Here though, at Lone Star, it appeared that some sort of additional cream was added.  It appeared to be sour cream to me, but I'm willing to be wrong there.  The outcome was a bit diluted in terms of the avocado flavor, and a much denser dip all around.  I would have been thrilled with a bit more lime juice or the addition of a chili pepper perhaps to break up the subtle monotony of the dish.  The chips however were hot and fresh and readily refilled.

I began with the Carnitas Pork taco- a small mound of shredded pork piled into a fresh tortilla, layered on top of salsa verde and showered with cilantro and queso fresco.  The flavors here were spot on- the fatty meat was cut nicely with the acidity and heat of the salsa verde, with the freshness of the cilantro and the salty cheese punching up the profile.  Everything taste fresh, with good texture contrasts and all around a delicious taco.  

I opted for the griddled queso with my avocado taco.  I love grilled cheeses- there is something about the mix of the smoke from the grill combined with the salty creaminess of the cheese that just makes for a perfect combination.  Here they executed that perfectly, and the thick slices of avocado even proudly displayed prominent grill marks.  The corn salsa added nice textural contrast, though I found the salsa itself to be far too sweet for my liking.

Overall I really enjoyed my experience at Lone Star.  It was clear that the ingredients were fresh and thoughtfully prepared.  The dishes held authentic flavors and were artfully presented.  This is a great addition to the Allston neighborhood, an area that is truly blossoming in the world of good eats.       

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Julian's, Providence, Rhode Island

As I mentioned, we didn't have a lot of plan when we arrived in Providence for the weekend, so as we explored, and our hunger grew over the afternoon, we used our social media outlets to find our next food stop.  Overwhelmingly, we were told to check out Julian's, a uniquely American style restaurant in the Federal Hill area of the city.  We checked out the menu on line and were thrilled to see some interesting creations.  We began our journey to Julian's almost immediately.

We chose to split a few of their appetizers among us as opposed to having big meals, and settled on their Roasted Winter Squash Savory Donuts with chile-cashew butter,whiskey smoked sugar, & fennel seed créme fraiche, their Caralemized Parsnip and Mushroom dip served with house tortilla chips, their Shiitake- Leek Chow Mein, and their steamed broccoli.  Our little feast was served promptly and we dug in.

I was most excited about the idea of a savory donut so I immediately went for those.  Unfortunately my first taste at Julian's was a bit of a disappointment.  The donuts didn't have any discernable flavor to them, and the roll in sugar made them basically identical to the sweet breakfast treats.  The little donut holes were tasty, but didn't contain the punch of squash, chili, chashews or whiskey- sadly.  The creme fraiche was a tasty addition, but again, lacked the punch of fennel seed.  I had most been looking forward to these treats, and was rather disappointed by the result.

The Caramelized Parsnip and Mushroom dip however was delicious.  The parsnips were every so slightly sweetened, and the earthy mushrooms perfectly balanced the that sweetness to ground this dip as a savory snack.  It had been topped with a kale based pesto, whose garlicky bite was a great addition.  Paired with salty tortilla chips- this was a great dish.

The shiitake- leek chow mein was a really fun recreation of that famous Chinese take out food.  The mushrooms were fresh and meaty, and the leeks lent their subtle onion flavor to the noodles.  I felt that there was a bit too much salt to the dish, but the others felt it was appropriate. 

We ordered the broccoli as an after thought, realizing that our order was severely lacking in nutritional value, but somehow those gently steamed spears of broccoli ended up stealing the show.  The broccoli was nice and fresh, it was cooked to just the right al dente spot, and I believe tossed ever so lightly in a little butter.  It was a wonderful addition to our table, and we ended up fighting over the last pieces -our former childhood selves (haters of the green veggie) shaking their heads in disbelief. 

Overall, I loved the vibe of Julian's.  At first site, it looked like a rough and tumble burger joint.  However the menu was vast in it's creative options, each dish with a unique twist and turn.  There were the missteps along the way, however I could definitely see why Julian's receives so many recommendations -it is a truly cool spot with a really unique food concept.

http://www.juliansprovidence.com/




 

Monday, March 12, 2012

Mamma Maria, North End, Boston

When one thinks of the North End, one may automatically think of tourists, double parked streets and chaos. Unfortunately this thought isn't entirely inaccurate, especially in regard to Hanover Street, and especially in the summer months. However, a quick turn off of Hanover and all the hustle and bustle and you can find yourself enjoying the calm serenity of North Square. There, in a renovated brownstone, sits Mamma Maria, a locally sourced Italian restaurant with a daily changing menu and a flair for detail.



Entering the structure feels like entering a home, the original layout preserved, with every crevice of the elegant manor used for premium dining space. We were led upstairs to a beautiful dining room with commanding views of downtown Boston. Gracious staff welcomed us, set us up with water and then disappeared as we set through the menu.


I'm sure it comes as no surprise, I had perused the menu for Mamma Maria at least a dozen times prior to the evening, and though knowing that what I was viewing on line was merely a sample as changes and additions are brought in each day, I had settled on their Rabbit Pasta. As I looked through the actual menu that evening I was thrilled to see the dish was still available. I went through a quick debate between that and a Suckling Pig dish, but, with assistance from our server, stuck with my gut and chose the rabbit.

I started with an arugula salad, paired with a creamy vinaigrette, crisp bacon and mandarine orange sections. the pairing of these ingredients was really a delight. The peppery arugula was offset by the creamy dressing, rounding out the flavors so that neither over came the other. I thought that the pairing of the orange with the bacon though was a stroke of genius. I always feel so healthy eating oranges, their plump juiciness, with their natural sweetness, they just always provide such refreshment. A bite of the orange mixed with the ever appealing yet indulgent crisp bacon was perfection. I loved the two together.


Now, I know what you're thinking, how could I eat rabbit. I understand the disgust- to be frank I cannot think about what I'm eating when I eat rabbit lest I will break down in tears. I made a pledge to myself a couples years ago that I would learn to love every food possible (aside from hard boiled eggs in any capacity (blech)) and so I have been trying all sorts of foods I never would have tried previously. Rabbit was on that list. I can say this much, if you can get past the image of Peter Cottontail, this protein is delicious.


Mamma Maria created a perfect dish for it as well. Wide noodles matched with the gamey meat, coated in a light tomato sauce- every flavor worked together. The carb-tastic noodles were the perfect back drop to the simple sauce, which played down to the tender and well cooked meat. It was clear that the rabbit was the star of this show, and its tender, full flavored qualities ensured that this decision was not in vain. It was delicious.
Mamma Maria truly impressed me. A spot that I have passed a hundred times provides a beautiful, elegant space to enjoy a meal, and a quiet conversation, or a family gathering. The service is spot on, welcoming, joking when needed, and extremely knowledgeable. Their daily changing menu, with references to the farms that they are able to pull ingredients, screams fresh preparations, and a true dedication to their craft. Mamma Maria is on my short list of fantastic North End restaurants....scratch that -Mama Maria quickly moved to the the short list of favorite Boston restaurants.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Tico, Back Bay, Boston

Michael Schlow opened Tico, a Mexican themed tapas spot (in its basest description) just about a year ago.  It opened around the same time as several other Mexican style restaurants but has been standing over many of those since opening.  It comes as no surprise really, Michael Schlow is no novice in te kitchen.  His other ventures, notably Radius and Via Matta have been garnering acclaim for years.  Last night was my first opportunity to check out Tico, and it didn't surprise me at all that each dish was unique and well thought out. In the true Tapas style, Tico's menu has a long list of small plates to choose from, encouraging diners to sample many dishes rather than being regulated to one or two.  My friend and I set out to find the standouts on the list.   We began with the tuna tartar, diced raw tuna gently mixed with Serrano peppers and xxx served with marinated spiced cucumbers and large taco chips.  The tuna was spot on.  Luxurious in its natural flavor but enhanced with spicy notes from the pepper and lime.  The cucumbers, a pleasant addition, added their own heat from their marinade with chili pepper flakes, brought a refreshing contrast to the dense fish.  As the first dish of the night, Tico showed heir ability to bring not only a well prepared dish, but their ability to incorporate heat in a pleasant way. Next to arrive at the table, lobster and avocado tacos.  Two ingredients listed and I was sold, what could be better than fresh succulent lobster paired with creamy avocado?  Apparently the addition of pickled onions and fresh cilantro could knock it up a level or two.  Every bite of this soft shell taco varied the taste palette between the sweet lobster, the fresh avocado, and spicy tangy onions.   My fork then found its way to the BBQ shrimp served under a small mountain of diced mango salad.  Halved shrimp sat in a little pool of sweet and spicy BBQ sauced, perfectly cooked and well seasoned.  The little heat that was present was broken up nicely by the fresh fruit creating a wonderful flavor and texture variation.    Next up shrimp avocado and bacon tacos-yup that happened.  While I enjoyed the more complete palate in the lobster tacos, these were definitely tasty.  Well cooked shrimp, more of that perfectly ripe avocado all combined with just enough smoky bacon to make its presence known without overpowering the other more delicate flavored.   Our last savory dish of the night was the one I would have overlooked-cheese and mushroom quesadillas topped with a black truffle dressing.  Crisp on the outside from their pan fry, their outer hell broke way to pillowy and gooey cheese stuffing, packed with tender mushrooms.  The truffle dressing didn't disappoint either lending just enough true truffle flavor to bring an incredibly luxurious vibe to an otherwise simple dish.  I loved the flavors here and even had a little difficulty remaining polite and not taking them all for myself. Somehow there was a little room left for dessert, and one we couldn't resist sharing was their "chocolate gelato peanut butter mousse over the top banana split".  Three scoops of chocolate gelato surrounded by a beautifully caramelized banana and swirls of peanut butter sauce, chocolate ganache and covered in crushed peanuts-this was an incredibly fun and playful dessert.   As Tico is "another Mexican spot" in town with so many others that fail to hit the mark, I had some reservations walking in.  Schlow more than surpassed my expectations by providing a diverse menu with food that was full of bright flavors, authentic seasonings and unique twists on the classics.  Tico joins a short list of truly delicious Mexican food in Boston!  

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Giacomo's, North End, Boston

There are those restaurants that you just have to return to…normally again and again and again. Giacomo’s, North End location, is one of those restaurants for me. In fact, I’ve even written about it here before, and now here I am repeating an entry. That’s just how much I love Giacomo’s- it deserves another entry, a check in years later to assure you that yes-it is still every bit as fantastic as before.



As though by design, I was awarded my favorite seat last night, two chairs placed at the end of the high bar that wraps around the exposed kitchen. The vantage point the perch gives you allows full viewing of the full restaurant, and open access to the kitchen as the chefs and cooks prepare pastas and seafood, taking orders from the staff and pushing out entrees to the hungry patrons. The vibe in Giacomo’s is timeless, the wait staff treats their customers as family, in for a ribbing where needed, a joke and a smile where appropriate, and efficient service over all. I sat back in my seat last night, watched my friend be harassed by our waiter, and enjoyed every minute of the evening.


We started with their special appetizer for the night, a large sphere of Burrata cheese, set atop a small pile of tomatoes, roasted red peppers and basil and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. The Burrata, one of my all-time favorite cheeses was wonderful, with the firm outer casing, breaking through to the creamier inside; the flavors were wonderfully creamy and salty at once. Despite the cold temperatures of winter, Giacomo’s located some fresh, red, flavorful tomatoes for their appetizer. What might be considered a “simple salad” it is the beauty of the fresh, pungent flavors that makes it sing.


Now Giacomo’s gives serious options when it comes to entrees. Beyond the normal preset meals, they also have a list of seafood that can be paired with linguine and then a sauce matched with it of your choice. I knew exactly what I was craving when I walked in last night, and quickly settled on linguine with shrimp and their homemade Fra Diavlo sauce. I was given a platter of pasta. The steaming dish was loaded with thick linguine noodles, well sauced and dotted with shrimp. Fra Diavlo sauce is one of my favorites. The translation (loosely) is “from the fire” so traditionally it is supposed to pack a little heat. However too often I find minimal spice in variations around town, and I’m left thinking that there isn’t much difference between it and a standard Marinara sauce. This does not apply at Giacomo’s. Their sauce is well spiced, full of flavor and basically plate licking good. Paired with tender shrimp and a noodle that can stand up to the full flavors, it is pasta perfection.


Giacomo’s, though a tourist trap, is a piece of Boston tradition for me. It is a place where the wait staff recognizes the repeat offenders, and everyone is treated like family. The food is comforting, classic and hearty. The wine list is short, but incredibly affordable, and all combined- Giacomo’s remains my favorite in the North End.






Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Stone Hearth Pizza, Multiple Locations

Pizza.  The very word conjures images of deliciousness:  Gooey melted cheese, sitting atop acidic pureed tomatoes punched up with herbs and spices all carried by a thin, crispy crust.  Nothing wrong with that right?  Of course, the delivery of pizza isn't that simple anymore now is it?  You have those crazy fast food pies that are more oil and grease than naturally possible, you have soggy crust pies, pies where the cheese doesn't adhere to the pie and comes off in one molten lava like clump, and, of course, you have the pies that taste delicious but render a price tag that reminds you of that last steak dinner you had.  Oh pizza, such a strained love affair it is that we have.  


So how about a pizza place that's making those classic pies you know and love, and some fresh and creative ones to boot (kale on a pizza?  yes please!) and making all of them with fresh, local, organic produce and proteins?  A pizza shop where they know their suppliers, they know the farms, and they even know their local beer suppliers (is there any better combination than pizza and beer?)?  Let me take this time then to introduce you to Stone Hearth Pizza.  


Stone Hearth has four locations in the Boston area, and at each is incorporating locally sourced, organic where possible, and fresh ingredients to their pizzas, salads and appetizers.  The result is food that tastes like food, like what you might make in your own kitchen.


I sampled several of their salads and loved that the greens were crisp and full of flavor, and the rest of the ingredients followed suit.  Most of all though I was impressed that the greens weren't swimming in dressings and oils.  Though they were dressed, it was done with a light hand and the natural flavors of the salad were preserved.  This seems to be a rare find out there in the world of salads- and a really refreshing twist (pun intended).


We were also treated to a selection of their appetizers.  Now normally I find appetizers at pizza places to be, well, pretty terrible.  Cold sticks of fried cheese, maybe a sorry stack of nachos...what is it with cheesy appetizers before eating cheesy pizza?  Well Stone Hearth has changed all that. Their appetizers consist of a creamy eggplant dip, mild or spicy plump meatballs or fresh salty olives wrapped in cheddar cheese and then baked into a toasty treat.  These were not your average pizza joint offerings, and it was clear that thought and time went into each.


Finally, we can turn our attention to the main event- the Pizza!  Stone Hearth's pizzas are made with organic flours and tomatoes, they are thin crusted, and baked at 600 degrees to ensure a crisp texture and a charred flavor.  The toppings are plentiful which makes you know you're getting bang for your buck, however they do limit the "gooey" feel of a cheesy pizza.  However, it is a delight to see items like kale, smoky blue cheese and arugula on a pie.  They are also conscious of dietary needs, offering pizzas that are gluten free, and offering a variety of different types of cheeses to appeal to those with dairy concerns.  This is an area that I know needs concentration by the industry and so it was a delight to see a real effort being made.  This attention to detail makes it a spot that is truly a family spot- with options appealing to everyone. 


Perhaps most impressive is Stone Hearth Pizza's commitment to the community.  They support not only local businesses, but also a variety of local charities, for more information please visit their community page:  http://www.stonehearthpizza.com/giving.htm


Stone Hearth is offering a great selection of pizzas, as well as a host of salads, appetizers, baked pastas and more.  They definitely an asset to the community, and I urge you to give them a try the next time a pizza craving hits!  

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Living Social Gourmet- A Dinner at Bistro du Midi, Boston

Oh LivingSocial...I fell in love with you long ago, what with your charming coupons and swoon inducing deals.  I fell hard when I found your listings of "escapes" wonderful locales luring me to their folds for fractions of what they would normally cost, but this was the week I realized that was true, everlasting love.  You see this was the week that I had the good fortune to test out your brand new feature- LivingSocial Gourmet.  


Similar to learning that your already great boyfriend is a guy who picks you up at 3 am from the airport, or makes you chicken soup when you're sick, LivingSocial Gourmet is going the distance bringing only the most unique dining experiences to the city of Boston.  LivingSocial is partnering up with some of the finest restaurants in Boston to offer exclusive dining experiences that are not offered otherwise.  That's right- LivingSocial Gourmet is your ticket into those new menu launches, tasting menus, and otherwise unobtainable restaurant events.  


As part of the kick off of this program here in Boston, I was invited to attend their inaugural event- a 5 course tasting menu with wine pairings at the esteemed Bistro du Midi, a relaxed French Bistro located with a fabulous view of Boston's Public Gardens.  


Bistro du Midi had elected to keep their offering small, and so a group of six of us culinary lovers were led to a small private section of the upstairs dining room, greeted by both the front of the house manager as well as their extremely accomplished Sommelier,  Todd Lipman.  Todd was our guide for the evening, explaining the course selections, as well as accompanying wine and cocktails.  As soon as we sat, our group together at the rustic feeling French Farmhouse table, we knew we were in for a treat.


Starting off the evening as our Amuse Bouce was a small serving of Bistro du Midi's saffron scented Bouillabaisse, accented with a single piece of seared Petit Loup de Mer and two small potatoes. This was paired with a gin based,  basil muddled, sparkling cocktail which was due to air on their menu the following day.  The Bouillabaisse was rich and creamy, well flavored from their use of lobster shells, Pernod and wine in the base, and showcased the seafood with subtle grace.  The ingredients balanced each other well, keeping the flavors in check lest they overpower the additions.  The cocktail was a hit around the table- strong scents of Pernod settled into the gin and basil as the it hit your tongue, and the gentle fizz created a refreshing finish, perfect for the rich Bouillabaisse.


As we moved on to our "Premier Plat", Todd once again made himself available to educate us on the course, as well as it's pairing with a 2010 l'Olivier de la Reze from Minervois.  It was a simple, clean white, dry but not overly so, a light wine which wonderfully complimented the intricate crudo dish laid before us.  Delicate Spanish Mackerel, mixed with blood orange juice,  and fennel, topped with watermelon radishes and micro greens and finally finished with a spicy pepper emulsion took my nomination for dish of the evening.  The mackerel, delicate and fleshy, scented with orange and sweet fennel was elevated by the peppery radish with the slightest hint of heat provided by the emulsion.  The dish had incredibly clean flavor, and the varying textures, from the silky crudo, to the slight crunch of the greens and finally the dense foam of the emulsion, created a different experience with each bite.  This was a dish made with expertise, a conscious nod to the flavors present, and in tune with the crisp wine pairing.


Our next course, a giant seared prawn laid atop shrimp and arugula stuffed calamari with a Blue Crab tomato ragout was a work of art.  The chef had gone so far as to add a single leaf of Arugula, perched on top of the prawn, as a palate refresher from the acidic ragout.  The prawn, well seared with quick caramelizing on a single side, was meaty and delicious bringing strong notes of  the ocean to my plate. The calamari was also well prepared, well cooked to avoid any chewy textures, however I felt that the filling was a bit lackluster.  I missed the strong presence of arugula, and the delicious flavor of shrimp and was sadly distracted by an overall feeling of dryness in the stuffing.  I was told later that a healthy dunking in the ragout solved the dryness concern.  The ragout, while on the subject, was delicious- strongly flavored with Blue Crab.  This dish was paired with the robust 2008 Domaine Fontsainte from Corbieres.  Acidic but full of berry flavors, this dry red wine stood well with with seafood, proving, once again, that red wines, even bold ones, can be married beautifully to seafood. 


Our next dish had several of us stealing glances almost asking permission to clean our plates with the highly impolite finger sweep rather than miss out on any drop of the heavenly sauce.  Prime Sirloin steak, cooked to a perfectly pink medium rare was sliced and served atop a gentle hill of mashed potatoes (pomme puree), enhanced by a drizzle of Sauce au Poivre, and finally accented with a salad of frisee and green beans.  That sauce, a combination of green peppercorns in brandy and a touch of cream...well- there wasn't a thing that could be said against it.  It was spicy creamy perfection.  It was paired with a 2008 Domaine Houchart Rouge, out of the Cotes de Provence.  This was a highly interesting wine made from remainder of the red grapes also used to make rose.  So where the rose is light, this was very dark, with deep flavors of berries that brought out those wonderful spicy notes from the sauce.  I found this wine, a mix of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon to be highly drinkable, as I do with most blended wines.


The finale was dessert- a hazelnut milk chocolate cake, topped with ganache, and served with salted caramel ice cream.  The table seriously considered ordering a vat of the ice cream, though I feel our sharing skills would have seriously been put to the test had we done so.  The salt in the ice cream was light, but noticeable enhancing the sweetness of the caramel.  The cake was my favorite part however.  Similar in flavor to a favorite Christmas time hazelnut and chocolate candy, the base layer had crunchy texture lent from cornflakes mixed into the chocolate. The ganache was silky and smooth, dotted with whole hazelnuts and spears of chocolate.  The cake itself was not overly sweet, and so when combined with the ice cream, a perfect level of decadent sweetness was achieved. This was paired with a 2009 Chateau Bel Air, Tradition from Sainte Croix du Mont, a golden wine made from Semillion grapes (one of my favorites).  The beauty of the Semillion is that while they are considered dessert wine grapes, they just aren't as sweet as some others.  Here, they complimented the dessert without bringing friction to the palate which so often results in an almost bitter by product.


I was truly honored to be a part of this evening.  Todd Lipman and Chef Robert Sisca put together a superb meal from amuse to dessert, and in turn hosted a perfect dinner party.  The experience truly felt unique, as I sat with my new found friends and we traded food stories from all over the globe, it was a night like no other.  LivingSocial Gourmet is truly offering a special service, bringing the food lover into a world sometimes seen as off limits.  It is a world I often have my nose pressed against the glass of, and I am so thankful to have been a part for this evening.  LivingSocial Gourmet can be found at http://livingsocial.com/gourmet -they are still in a bit of a launch process here in Boston, but sign up and watch the incredible opportunities filter into your in box.           

Monday, January 9, 2012

Local 149, South Boston

There are some places that you just immediately feel at home once you step through the threshold.  Many of my favorite restaurants have achieved this feeling.  They aren't pretentious, they are fun, laid back and comfortable.  Now, when they have delicious food as well, the combination makes it a spot I want to return to time and again.  


Local 149 in South Boston has quickly become one of these spots to me.  I have visited a couple of times in the past few weeks, and have already settled in to a "go to" cocktail, and have been thrilled with the dishes I have tried.  Everything I've had has been fresh, well cooked, well seasoned and ultimately delicious.  


I began my journey into Local 149 with a selection of their cured meats and cheeses, served with pickled vegetables and the traditional accompaniments.  Obviously cured meats have become rather trendy throughout the restaurant scene, however Local 149 brings a new freshness to it.  Each selection is labeled with its origin, with many locally sourced, and others representing a great cross section of the US.  Meats from Tennessee, Virginia and New York are mingled with those cured right here in New England, and the cheeses hail from California to Ireland with diversity in their flavors and textures.  It is clear that Local 149 has put time and thought into their charcuterie, and it is worth it.  


Second on the list were the Hog Wings.  Yeah- you read that right- Hog Wings. Mini Pork Shanks, trimmed down to resemble chicken drumsticks, fried and coated with a hoison barbecue sauce are served piping hot and with Local 149's own ranch dressing for dipping.  First bite of these was fantastic.  The slightly sweet, slightly spicy BBQ sauce packed the perfect punch, and when dipped into the ranch dressing, accentuated with a healthy dose of dill, the flavors blended well.  However, I was disappointed as the third/fourth bites were reached, when my bites had already eliminated the BBQ sauce, and it no longer imparted it's flavor.  The internal meat, while juicy and well cooked, lacked any discernible flavor, rendering it a little "boring" and subject to discard before fully finished.  Perhaps a bit of a marinade pre-frying would help?


Entrees at Local 149 run the gamut as well - from hearty helpings of Braised Lamb Shank, to warming servings of Chorizo Cassoulet, to the always fun Chicken and Waffles.  They offer a variety, as well, of burgers and sandwiches, and it was here that I found my new obsession.  Saturday evening, dining late and not wanting anything too heavy, my dining companion and I decided to share the Yellow Fin Tuna Burger and the Local Cheeseburger.  My first bite was the Tuna Burger in which large chunks of Yellow Fin Tuna had been formed together into a patty, topped with caramelized onions, eggplant bacon, and wasabi flavored pickles.  The result was incredible.  The tuna was fresh, and rare inside having just been seared on the outside.  It had perfect, subtle flavor and a luxurious consistency that accommodated the toppings wonderfully.  The sweetness from the onions, the  tang and spice from the pickles and the smoke from the "bacon" brought all of the familiar flavors of a burger into play while maintaining the sandwich's unique properties.  We split this bad boy in half- but each of us caught the other eyeing the half that wasn't there- plotting a stealth move of stealing it back.  That was one tasty Tuna Burger!


The Local Cheeseburger was not to be outdone however.  Thick, flavorful and juicy despite it being cooked to a medium well state (by request- I shuddered in horror), it was a burger to be reckoned with.  We elected to have it bedecked with a couple slabs of crispy bacon in addition to it's original toppings of Caerphilly Cheddar cheese and a pickled green onion- it was a very smart decision.  That crisp and smokey bacon lent a wonderful textural contrast to the melted cheese and held up well in the face of the tangy tomato.  The beauty here though was that neither of these flavors interfered with the flavor of the grass fed beef the burger was composed of.  Here was a burger that held true beef flavor- which is so often lost in burgers due to over salting, or just a lower quality beef.  Local 149 though had a truly delicious blend of seasoning and beef, and the result was fantastic.  The fries here were a bit of a misstep for me, limp and a bit soggy, they were easy to bypass.


There is no burger face off here- thank goodness because I wouldn't want to choose a winner.  


Local 149 has quickly become a comfort spot for me- a great place to enjoy a cocktail, a pint of beer from an extensive menu, and enjoy some great food with some inventive twists and turns.   I am already looking forward to my next visit...

Friday, December 16, 2011

The Biltmore, New Upper Falls, Newton

Indulgent, decadent...downright sinful.  All of these are words I'd use to describe my dining experience at The Biltmore located in the Upper Falls area of Newton.  I headed over with a group of three other girls, and we were dead set on trying as much of their menu as possible.  

The Biltmore is billed as being a pub with American comfort food as their foremost offering- it has to be said-they take "comfort" to a whole different level.  We began our meal with two appetizers (as I said- indulgent) and settled on the Wrapped Scallops and the Crazy Delicious Pub Fries.  The scallops, wrapped in salty Prosciutto, resting in a pool of cider glaze and topped with apple butter and fried sage leaves were lovely.  The salt from the cured meat was well complimented by the sweetness from the glaze, and the flavorful apple butter worked really well with the large plump sea scallops.  The pub fries are where that word indulgent really comes into place.  Large, crisp waffle fries were mounded on to a plate topped with a mix of three cheeses (ricotta included), slivers of bacon and a fried egg.  The menu stated that gravy would also be present- but I didn't find any on our serving.  However, even without that added punch of gravy, these fries were basically insane.  The potatoes themselves were perfectly crisp and meaty, the cheese was a perfectly blend of salty, melty and creamy, the bacon smokey, and that egg...runny yolk, greasy whites, it was an egg to make breakfast jealous.  The combination was awesome-a perfect dish to sop up any beers you might be imbibing.

We decided to split our entrees, so we settled on their Chicken and Waffles, the Burger special which, for the evening hailed from Ireland with Irish Bacon and Irish cheese, the Smoked Duck Grilled Cheese, and the half rack of their Memphis Ribs.  What was I saying about decadent?  My favorite of the evening, hands down, was the Chicken and Waffles.  Crispy fried chicken, a golden brown Belgian Waffle, and a variety of sauces and spreads made every bite delicious.  Stacking together a warm piece of waffle, topped with apple flavored butter, a bit of hot sauce, chicken and then a drizzle of apple flavored maple syrup hit every taste bud. Sweet and savory, breakfast and dinner- it was every bit as delicious as I had hoped.  

I am pained to say I cannot give a great review of the burger, I was in charge of divvying that one out and somehow cut the quarters oddly and ended up with only a small piece of burger between my section of buns.  However, what I did have looked well cooked, and tasted fine.  Ill have to return (twist my arm).

The Smoked Duck Grilled Cheese was the down fall of the evening for me.  It was billed as Duck Confit with Fontina cheese, and a blue cheese mustard, served with apple butter, and apple slaw.  The sandwich was jam packed with well flavored duck, however the cheeses and mustard were barely present making it much more a duck sandwich rather than a grilled cheese.  Adding the apple butter mixed up the flavors a bit, but I was sad to be missing out on the tang of blue cheese, the heat of mustard and the creaminess of the Fontina. 

The Memphis Ribs, however, were fantastic.  Meaty and well flavored with a tasty barbecue sauce, the meat itself contained that wonderful sting of smoke from a good fire, and the barbecue sauce coated well without being overly messy.  These were served with the same apple slaw, baked beans and fries.  

Over all the fries that accompanied the meals were limp and greasy, not their best showing.  However, as we had polished off the plate of Pub Fries earlier- they were not missed.  

We finally, decided to end the evening on a sweet note.  To be honest- we were set to leave after our entrees, but then we remembered- the sinful dessert that we had read on the menu.  That item that couldn't be missed- a fried fluffer nutter.  When we saw it on the menu it was as though it was illuminated in light from heaven with angels flying around and harps playing...well and a little devil sitting in the corner with his little horns on and his pitchfork spouting fire.  It seemed too good, too exciting, too "bad" to miss.  And so it arrived, wedges of a fluffer nutter, stuffed with banana slices, battered and deep fried and then drizzled with raspberry sauce.  It appeared just as I imagine, fluff oozing out of the crisp exterior, but the result was lacking.  The crispy exterior had an odd flavor to it, as though this sweet dessert had been fried with the french fries, or had been dunked in oil that was a bit too old.  The peanut butter was delicious, but used too sparingly, and the fluff got a bit lost in the mix.   My piece didn't contain any bananas, so it felt as though I was simply eating fried bread.  Sinful yes, but the treat I was going for it was not.

The Biltmore is definitely creating some showstopping menu items.  Their fare is rich, it's comforting, and it's definitely warming.  Their menu does concentrate on the hearty meals, and offers little diversity for one seeking a lighter alternative. This can be ignored however, especially as we are in the season to "bulk up" for the winter months.      

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

The Gallows, South End, Boston

Almost a year ago I journeyed to The Gallows in the South End for the first Boston Food Bloggers meet up.  Seemingly hundreds of Boston area food bloggers piled into its four walls, mingling, chatting and scarfing down all of the tasty bites the Gallows had on hand for us.  I had a smattering of food, and resolved that I would soon return to try more of their menu, and really learn what makes them sing.  A few days ago, I finally had an opportunity to make good on this resolve. 

The Gallows from the moment we entered, was warm, welcoming, and most of all, fun.  The staff fell right into an easy comfort, cracking jokes where appropriate, recommending favorites, and answering any ridiculous question we could come up with.  The food didn't miss a beat and only improved on the experience.

We began our meal with an order of their Simple Poutine.  Poutine, if you are unfamiliar, is Canadian in origin, a hearty serving of freshly fried potatoes topped with creamy cheese curds and a brown gravy.  The Gallows version is, in a word, addictive.  The cheese curds, just a bit tangy and salty, are the perfect topper for the crisp french fries with a nice gravy to make the whole mess that much more tempting. Honestly, with something as devilish as Poutine, you really can't go wrong.  

I had a difficult time deciding on my entree, finally settling on the slow roasted Berkshire Pork, which was served atop fresh apple sauce, and topped with a salad of escarole and chicory with a bacon vinaigrette.  The play between the bitter, crisp greens and the sweet apple sauce was a stroke of genius, with the pork playing a harmonious role between the two. I did wish that the bacon vinaigrette had a bit more bacon to it, as it was overpowered by the other flavors, and the pork was a bit on the fatty side, however to be honest, neither really made for negative feel to the dish.  

The cocktails, at The Gallows, are another high point. Libations I sampled were well balanced, each flavor described present, and all in a pleasing way.  They are, I will say, potent as well.

The Gallows is not a spot to be missed, and I am kicking myself for delaying my visit so long.  It is a spot where patrons can immediately settle in for an evening of fun, well designed drinks and delicious, comforting food.    

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Taberna De Haro, Brookline

There are those restaurants that sit, quietly, without proclamation, waiting for you to find them.  They have been around for ages, their food known to be good, classic, and dependable.  Perhaps it is their dependability that makes their presence known, but not emphatically.  Taberna De Haro in Brookline in one of these restaurants.  Opened in 1998, Taberna De Haro has stood the test of time, offering authentic Spanish Tapas to the hungry residents of Brookline and Boston.  As my sister, a lover of tapas, was in town over the holiday weekend, and she has recently returned from a trip to Spain, I couldn't think of a better spot to check out.

We began our journey of tapas with the Tortilla Espanola, a rustic dish of potatoes layered high into an omelet and then sliced into wedges.  This was a simple and clean preparation, with little adornment.  The result was a satisfying intro into our tapas meal.

Next were Piquillos Rellenos, roasted red peppers, stuffed with Branada and then pan fried.  Branada is an ingredient I haven't been introduced to previously- so I thought I'd provide a little explanation here for anyone else who hasn't tried it.  Branada, in its basest form, is an emulsion of salt cod and olive oil.  Here it was stuffed into those wonderful peppers which, when roasted take on a beautiful earthy and tangy flavor.  The Branada was a bit grainy for my liking, with a tongue feel similar to light sand, but the flavors were lovely together.  

Next we tried the Alcachofas salteadas, sauteed artichoke hearts.  This was another simple preparation of tender artichoke hearts, quartered and then sauteed in olive oil and garlic.  The beauty of this dish was in its incredible simplicity- a showing of respect for the ingredients used.

Habas con jamon were delivered next, and were a standout of the evening-though the menu named fava beans in the dish, delivered were lima beans.  The difference was inconsequential however as the combination of the hearty beans with the wonderful smokey richness of the ham was a perfect combination.  It was a dish that we all enjoyed multiple helpings of, and were sad to see when it was done.

Next to our table was my stand by tapas order: Gambas al ajillo: a cast iron pan, sizzling with hot oil, and full of small shrimp and a healthy dose of garlic.  Taberna de Haro's offering did not disappoint with full flavors coming through, but not overpowering the delicate flavor of the fresh shrimp. 

Rounding out our table of food were the Chorizo a la Sidra, chorizo sausage braised in sparkling cider, and Ensalada de endivias con cabrales, a wonderful salad made simply of endive and blue cheese crumbles.  The chorizo was a good dish, though I felt that the cider reduced was too sweet for the sausage and overpowered it's spicy nature.  The salad, however, was perfect.  Bitter endive, crisp and refreshing, paired with tangy blue cheese was a wonderful addition to some of the heavier dishes we enjoyed.  

I was really impressed with Taberna de Haro, though from the rave reviews I've heard around town I knew that that was to be expected.  The beauty of their food is in the great simplicity with which it is prepared.  It is the confidence they show in their end result to not muddle every dish with extraneous garnish, or complicated ingredients.  Taberna de Haro graces every table with the feel of what a meal in Spain would be, full of flavor and life.           

Monday, November 7, 2011

Catalyst, Kendall Square, Cambridge

As some of you may have heard, I have recently begun writing a weekly column for Boston Magazine's on line food edition Chowder, called Taste Test.  The premise behind Taste Test is for me to check out restaurants soon after they open, or launch a new menu, or make some other substantial change to their offering, choose a dish that best encompasses their food philosophy and report back to you all- the viewing audience.  It has been a truly wonderful experience to work with the team at Boston Magazine, not to mention collaborating with such an amazing piece of Boston culture.  Boston Magazine is awesome, truly and completely.

Last week I made my way over to Catalyst, a newly opened restaurant in Kendall Square.  Catalyst was opened by Chef William Kovel, formerly of the late great Aujourd'hui in the Four Seasons which shuttered several years ago.  Kovel's reputation from that time led him to work as consulting chef at 28 Degrees in the South End for some time, and now finally brought him to his own space- the realization of many dreams coming true.  I had the opportunity to meet with Chef Kovel last December, just as the space for Catalyst had been acquired and he was mulling chair decisions and table top looks.  I toured the empty space and he marked where each section of the restaurant would fall- the partially open kitchen, the massive bar, the conference room spaces....his vision was clear, and it was evident that this restaurant would be a treasure.  When it opened last month I was thrilled to finally get to see the reality of the space, and the creations of his menu.

We began by splitting a salad billed as:  Arugula, Endive, Asian Pear, Walnut, Berkshire Blue Cheese, Whole Grain Mustard Vinaigrette.  Understanding our desire to share the salad, it was delivered to our table on separate plates, making what could be an awkward venture, easy and appealing.  The salad was absolutely delicious.  Peppery Arugula and lightly spicy Endive paired with sweet pear and tangy blue cheese created a dish that touched on every flavor sensation.  The combination resulted in a crisp, refreshing salad, but which packed a full and addictive punch. This salad would end up being the star of the evening.

Next we also shared a second appetizer, the Crispy Quail, served with Black Mission Fig, Gastique, Mizuna, and an Autumn Berry Jam.  Delicate as a quail is, this was served on a single dish and we were left to divvy it ourselves.  Though I appreciated the touch on the salad, here it would have been difficult to split the quail with finesse.  Quail has a very strong flavor, similar to the dark meat of a chicken, rich and gamey.  Paired with the figs and jam the sweetness was a nice contrast, though I felt that the gastique was lost in the mix.  The mizuna, a Japanese Water Green, provided a nice relief with its peppery flavor.  Though the quail wasn't as crisp as anticipated, the dish showcased, once again, a strong suit of Chef Kovel's- layering flavor components to create "perfect bites" when all are brought together.

I dined on the Garganelli, Chicken Oysters, Bacon, and Black Truffle Butter for my main course.  I'll refer you to my thoughts found on BostonMagazine.com for the full review.

Finally, we ended the evening with the Bosc Pear Tart, House Made Crème Fraiche Ice Cream, and Candied Almonds for dessert.  Here, again, Kovel showed off his skill of layering components.  The tart itself was tender and moist, with butter and pear flavors in even distribution.  It was decadent and sweet, the contrast was brought in with the slightly tangy Creme Fraiche ice cream, and then the wonderful and satisfying crunch of the almonds.  

Catalyst is absolutely an experience.  The space is warm and welcoming, and the staff, for the most part, are knowledgeable and helpful.  Kovel's presence is felt in every dish, and throughout the space as he wandered from station to station ensuring proper execution.  Are there missteps to be had?  Absolutely, the restaurant has only just celebrated its one month birthday, however over all, it is apparent, from the moment of entry, that attention to detail is chief and that the restaurant as a whole will attempt to dazzle their patrons.     

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